This entry is for the past 48 hours, Wednesday August 17 and Thursday August 18 presumably. As previously written we finally got the green light to leave Kaikoura on Tuesday August 16, with one tricky snow-covered pass we made it as far as Springfield. the Springfield Inn actually had a mural of the Simpsons on the front window, across the street was a big purple donut with a bite taken out of it in the middle of the field.
Wednesday morning Emari and I had found out early from the gas attendant that both Porters and Arthur's Pass would remain closed all day. Emari confirmed this by searching a few different sites. All of the ski resorts in the area were closed....we were not going anywhere. We camped out in a cafe in the morning hours and eventually a man with his twin daughter and son, as well as his sister joined us at our table. A good conversation about the mountains, skiing and riding. A good distraction was his twin kids who were obsessed with crawling under the table to untie and ultimately tie our shoes together, both claiming this was done by invisible aliens. This entire mountain ridge has been getting hammered with snow since Sunday/Monday and we were just out of reach. All of our electrons were running low on battery life. Emari and I agreed we'd only run the heat a couple hours in the morning around breakfast and a few hours at night, dinner time up until approximately 8pm, then it was bundle the fuck up time!!!
During the afternoon we played backgammon and read. Hard to believe I have read two full books, almost my quota for the year. I think Emari folded the last page of her thousandth read book for the year. The highlight of this day however, was checking out the next cafe which had the most amazing food, absolutely the best local Kiwi grub we have eaten. A sweet woman, I'm guessing in her late 50's, who seemed very proud that she offered "fresh home cooked meals." With all the stranded people in town she disclosed she had stoked the shelves three times. I almost want to pass through there again just to eat.
Thursday morning was cold, thick breath in the air when we woke. I turned on the gas to get the coffee going, put out bowls with cereal and banana, Emari was still bundled under, "double comforter" toped with a sleeping bag. I slept horribly awaking at 2 am to the sound of rain. It would rain off and on through out the night. In my mind it meant one thing, more snow in the mountains, which I was thinking would result in the passes remaining closed.
We ate and then cleaned up. The iPad had 1% battery life so we both climbed into the cab to start the engine and plug in the iPad. Emari's cyber search confirmed Porters and Arthur's Pass closed, not to be updated until after noon. Every mountain up Arthur's Pass was also closed, to dig out and do avalanche potrol, with the exception of Temple Basin, but unless you had been stranded there, you were not getting there. What to do? I was having a "Shining" moment...mountain reports confirmed that in the past three days they received 130cm-150cm....Fucking five feet of snow, what I have been dreaming about yet unable to get to, just out of reach. Nothing against a cold and damp camper van, but I was itching to be on the move, restless with a capital "R". The entire town of Springfield consist of two cafe's, an Inn and a gas station/convenience store which by the way either sells or rents DVD's...the sign also proudly reported even of the Adult nature but was "illegal to display!" we had seen Spingfield and it delivered our best meal, but come tomorrow it it was going to be a full week with not being on any board.
Emari and I discussed our options and it seemed reasonable that we head for Mt. Hutt, roads were open and although the mountain was not completely open a lift was turning and we were an hour out. We both agreed a day of riding anywhere is better than not! We we off.
We arrived in the lower car lot where all vehicles needed to comply with snow chains to proceed up the pass. I was a anxious having never put snow chains on a vehicle or driven in them. I encouraged Emari to video because this could lead to a high probability "freak-out" which my father-in-law insisted he wanted at least one caught on tape....she refused. Rumor has it back in the day he was known for a few, this remains a current phenomenon for me. Despite for getting muddy and wet which we were told and warned this is the norm, besides a number of choice obscenities Emari and I got the chains installed and we were ready to roll, both excited that we would be getting a full day of riding in......little did we know what was in store for us.
We pulled out of the gate and their was a man and a lady with gear looking to hitch a ride up the pass. Knowing that I could very well be in the same predicament I rolled down the window and offered a ride with the following clause, "no guarantee I'll get you there." The man hoped in but the woman refused, we exchanged names but I was so anxious nothing registered. I bet we were not 1/16 up the pass, which at this point was mostly mud and gravel, struggling in second gear. I thought we were just kicking up rocks, but the noise was loud. Reluctantly I came to a stop, it was steep, no way to turn around and like a bad nightmare before you both chains were busted, totally destroyed. Upon further inspection I really started to freak, exclaiming, "we are so fucked, the chains are wrapped up in the axel. Our guest was out of the car and into another car heading up the pass in two minutes flat but stated he'd send someone down. While waiting I was able to free both axels from the chains. It was so scary under that rig, steep incline and I kept thinking, "this rig is going to roll right over me and kill me." Great for more self induced anxiety, like scaring yourself in the dark!
We were greeted buy a young guy who worked the mountain, asking how we were doing, my response, "we have been better." He inspected the situation and stated that he would go down the chain fitting station grab a hand and some chains adding, "we'll be fine after that." he returned ten minutes later with a co-worker and they had chains on our camper van in no time. We asked if we did anything wrong and his response was simply, "these camper vans are really not meant to be up here." he stated that they'd follow us up a bit and within a quarter mile, we snapped another link that was banging under the driver's side wheel well. I pulled over,the mountain crew strapped the loose link. At this point it was steep and snow and ice covered, I asked, "are we going to make it ip there?" the one guy responded this was one of the steepest sections and once past this it should be no problem.
"One of the last steep sections".........bullshit, this was beyond crazy in our nearly 7 meter camper van, struggling like sysiphus pushing the fucking rock forever up the mountain. The mountain crew followed a short while longer and we we on our own. We kept climbing, at this point little or no visibility, maybe 50yds, periods of snow, road plowed but steep and still snow covered.
It wasn't long before Emari and I heard more horrendous noise from the driver's side but their were limited safe spots to stop and look. Upon first inspection everything seemed fine. We pulled away sluggishly in first gear lucky to make second, the noise was even worse, I just started yelling, "Fuck....Fuck....Fuck." I pulled over again and at first glance it appeared as if a tie rod had come off at which point I exclaimed further, "we are so fucked, kiss that $5000.00 insurance bond away." Took hardly a half yogic breath and Emari and I inspected further. We realized when the chain broke, it broke off the rod that holds the fender up and stabilizes it. With duct tape and string I was able to tape and tie the rod up under the bumper. I had no idea where the top was, I was shot out and decided where we we at, we could turn around and head back down. Emari was the guide and I pulled a 3 point k-turn and we were on our way back down, but their was still a horrendous noise. We finally realized a piece of the chain on the inside was lose, I tied this up with string as well.
By the time we reached the chain installation station even our breaks smelled cooked despite the second gear descent. Emari and I were a wet and muddy mess, both quite shell-shocked and rattled. We ate got out of some of our gear, at room temperature pies and decided it was best to head to Christchurch to the camper van place to get a new set of chains. Emari e-mailed them and called from the road.
From Christchurch we headed to Fairlie, not far from Mt Dobson, where we plan to ride tomorrow. Supposedly they have short access road, camper van and bus friendly. I have no regrets about the camper van but for the snowboard leg of our trip and adventure I realize we are at a disadvantage, these things are literally too big and too heavy to make it up these steep and snow covered access roads. We are now going to plan B scouting out Mountains that have shuttle services up the mountain. I'm sad that I did not get to ride and experience Temple Basin. Emari and I were actually quite lucky that these events happened on a larger mountains access road. And though I had thoughts of blowing off the road closings I am happy I did not.....we are not in my all wheel drive Element on familiar roads, these roads are steep and deep with little room for error and if you were to go off the road the chances for living seem small.
The past 6 days of disappointments I know in time will really be the highlight of our trip. I'm not sure how Emari puts up with me, but we seem to be a really solid team and despite encouraging here to throw the iPad from the window when she was having an issue with it, she refused stating something like, "when I act violently like that, I feel worse....." I just smiled, she was and is right.
Camped up in Fairlie for the night. We'd be run off, fined or arrested back in the States the places we have been camped up!
AJ
Glad you are still with us! Holy shit!
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