It is now Saturday September 3rd and Emari and I have been back in Raglan since Thursday evening after spending all day Thursday driving from Wellington up Surf Highway exploring the Taranaki Coast for surf which was plentiful but the winds were not right. Emari and I finished our "Summit to Sea" tour with Aspiring Guides five days ago and in all honesty I am still processing the whole experience and was reluctant to write this entry.
So before I hen peck this iPad with two digits reflecting on our tour it has been great to be welcomed back into Ste'en and Tonya's home and surf Raglan, Indicators yesterday and today. Yesterday the surf was quite good, 6-10 foot on the faces but I definitely struggled finding my place in the line up and only caught about five waves, though one of those waves was like catching 15 really good ones back home. Today Ste'en and I pulled and early dawn potrol for 2 hours and I actually found some rhythm but the surf had dropped to head high with some bigger sets.
On Thursday August 25, 2011 Emari and I arrived at the Aspiring Guides Office in Wanaka at approximately 8:15am, both with mochaccinos in hand where we met our guide Stefan and two others in our touring party, Dave from New Zealand who had some previous touring experience and Tony from the Czech Republic, now living outside of Sydney Australia who had both trekking and ski touring experience. Emari and I were simply green and raw, I was anxious....excited with all the uncertainty that laid before us.
First on the agenda was discussing touring options as a weather system was moving in from the West that in essence shut down the original plan of touring the west coast, likely that we would make the fly in and then be snowed in at a hut negating touring and riding. Although Emari and I were their for input we really had no idea what we signed up for and my two censt were to put us in a place where we can ride. We settled on Mt Cook, more specifically the Tasman Glacier would be our playground for five days.
Next on the agenda was the review of gear and all the extra gear Emari and I would need to rent from Aspiring Guides, down sleeping bags good down to zero degrees, transceiver, shovel and avalanche probes, boot cramp-ons, ice axe, not to mention the climbing harness that would be worn every time We left the hut. I was left with the following thought, "what the fuck did I sign Emari and I up for." More importantly with Emari only riding a season in a half, how would she fair? We loaded up the Aspiring Guides vehicle that would transport us to the Mt Cook airport where our Heli awaited us with all our gear. We parked the camper van in front of Whit's house who also works at Aspiring Guides. We were off to Mt Cook.
From Stefan's log he provided the following for day one: 25/08/11
Car, Wanaka - Mt Cook Vilage ; Helicopter, Mt Cook Village - Tasman Saddle Hut; LUNCH ; Ski/Board, Tasman Saddle Hut - Tasman Saddle (4km, 270m, return).
From my brain, all the gear was weighed, the scale was off 29kgs, but total weight was still under requirements to load up the Heli and fly to the Tasman Saddle. It was windy and the Heli seemed to float right up the Tasman Glacier like a humming bird.
So after the Heli dropped us off on the Tasman Saddle with all our gear we hiked our gear approximately 200 yards down an incline where the Tasman Hut sat on the edge of a cliff, actually strapped down with cables. The walk down into the hut was icy and steps were carved out in the ice but one slip could have resulted in falling to your death. Needless to say with my fear of heights I took it gingerly, complicating my fear where my blown-out Burton Hail boots with very worn tread!
It appeared that we we not the only visitors to the hut, so we did our best to pick bunks that seemed unoccupied and began to put on our gear for our first outing which consisted of skinning along a lower ridge of the Tasman Saddle and taking our first run, untracked corn snow with some wind blown crust, the views were amazing, it was at this point when I first realized just how small I was. We needed to be mindful of two things, saving enough day light to skin back and the prospects of the forthcoming storm. I can remember feeling incompetent and slow as breaking down and putting a splitboard back together is at least a ten minute ordeal, the skiers were left waiting for us at every change-over but it was the best I could do, but I hated being the one others were waiting for. Of course I managed to turn this into few sarcastic and cynical lines.
As my mate, Tim Parker would say,"you have to like to climb on those split boards!" Well Tim our first real skin out was challenging and humbling. Stefan, our guide picked a shorter but steeper ascent, and although we traversed back and forth, the upper third was quoted steep at 30- 35 degree pitch, the last few hundred yards were also crusty and icy. Stefan actually used his ice axe to create two little ski width tracks the last 100 yards. Complicating these steep traverses were our snowboard boots, mine quite soft and I would get an ankle roll, feeling muscles in my calves and shins I did not know existed. For me the upper part was sketchy because of the ice, crust and steepness...my fear of heights put me completely in the moment of one step at a time, like a painful walking meditation. This was definitely my first humbling experience of this tour, their would be many more to come. This climb out was physically challenging, I kept thinking, "a lot of good P90X and yoga has done me" followed with, "what an absolute nightmare this would be if you were not physically fit. Although trapped in my own personal struggle this was my first real glimpse of how amazing Emari was doing, she had a great first run and despite only riding a season in a half, never been on skis before she did an amazing job climbing out. We both arrived back at the hut right before dusk. I was tired and hungry. It was great to eat and meet the other guide at the hut, Al Moore and his two clients, a married couple from all places Stowe VT., Steve and Sharon. Over the next four evening their would be plenty of laughs over dinner. Did I mention the out-house you had to climb up into to piss and shit? I didn't think so, but also a journey with a head lamp at night......I may never complain of a cold toilet seat again. Sleeping in our zero degree down sleeping bag was the warmest I had been this entire trip My sleep was broken by either driving nightmares or mountain nightmares, my brain probably never rested.
Friday August 26, 2011 at the Tasman Hut
Stefan's statistics for the day: 26/08/11
Ski/Board, Tasman Saddle Hut - Down Tasman Glacier (left side,200m 1km),up to Kelman Hut (360m,2.5km) ;LUNCH ; Ski/Board to Tasman Saddle Hut (2km, 135m)
We awoke around 7am, surprisingly no storm as of yet. Breakfast consisted of oatmeal/porridge with some sprinkled musli topped with fruit, hot tea and or as Stefan called it "cowboy coffee" made in a single pot adding hot water to coffee grinds let to steep and stir, after a few minutes cold water is dribbled around the inside edge of the pot causing the coffee grinds to settle. Fucking cool to be a cowboy on the Tasman Glacier. Game plan and gear was discussed and with the forecast storm it was best not to stray too far from the hut as no one wanted to return in a total white out. Standard gear was a climbing harness that everyone wore in case of falling into a crevase and/or to safely ascend/descend, transceiver, probe and shovel, boot cramp ons and an ice axe. Also included in our packs was two liters of water, sandwich and nibblies for lunch, some layering options, goggles and sun glasses.
A short walk put us on the left side of the Tasman Glacier, the steep ascent from the previous day with the 30-35 degree pitch. Riding rules were pretty simply, Stefan picked the line and we were told one of four things, stay to his right, stay to his left, keep behind him or open it up. This first leg was pretty wide open though down to the right were ice formations and crevasses. Up top was steep, one conservative heal side turn before laying out some turns in some great corn snow. In case you are wondering, Emari nailed it. I kept thinking, " damn, I think I finally picked the right one" or did she pick me? I looked back to see a small yard sale from Dave who had fallen and lost both skis. He was not hurt and in a few minutes he had gathered his gear and was off laying out a fresh line.
It would take a couple hours to climb back up the glacier and up into the Kelman Hut. Wow, and I thought it was sketchy getting into the Tasman Hut! This climb also became steep and we had to navigate an icy ridge above a shoot which put us at the base of the hut. That Icy ridge was sketchy on a snowboard, my fear of heights, and the fine tremors running up and down both legs did not help. Once across that ridge we stashed our gear safely behind some rocks, climbed up a snowbank to another ridge where Stefan secured a rope and Tony was the first to descend down and tie off the rope to a railing, a fall here would also surely result in death. We clipped into the rope with a carribiner that was attached to our harness and lowered ourselves down. Simple choices, do it or do it, the energy pulsating through my core was amazing, to be afraid and so full of life!
This was a nice and spacious hut though much colder than the Tasman Hut. We ate lunch, signed the guest book and by the time we finished lunch the winds had begun to blow and gust, change of plans, split boards back together, helmets and goggles, extra layers......so much harder getting skins on and off with gusting winds, boards back together with frozen hardware and once this was down Emari and I still needed to navigate a heal side traverse across that icy ridge......it was more like a sketchy booty scoot just hoping we wouldn't slide into the shoot but once far enough across Stefan gave the green light to point it and we had a run back to the Tasman Saddle Hut. Out of our gear and into some dry clothes, warmer clothes. Emari taught a yoga class from the Tasman Saddle Hut Yoga Institute. I did the whole routine from our upper bunk, she taught from a small space on the floor, next to her was Sharon, Steve in a lower bunk but got up walked around doing some of the postures. Stefan and Tony occupied some tight floor space while Dave did the entire routine from a bench. Al was more concerned with what he would call, " a cup of tea and a lie down" and prepping for dinner.
The weather deteriorated and we received a live weather report from Mt Cook and we were in for riding out a storm through out the night that brought 110 km/h winds and 30+cm of snow. It was looking like Mother Nature would deliver. Each passing day brought our crew closer and I felt very fortunate to enjoy the company of all we shared the hut with.....people that travel extensively and put themselves out there in the elements are truly a different breed.
Saturday August 27, 2011
Stefan's log: 27/08/11
Ski/Board in Hochstetter Dome Area, and skinned up left side of Tasman Glacier to Tasman Saddle Hut, (total change in elavation 2600m, distance 12km)
We awoke to blue skies and a foot of fresh snow. This was my 100th day of riding this year and proved to be the most amazing. We had a short skin up to a higher line on the Tasman Glacier before our first descent down to the base of the Hochstetter Dome Area. An awesome first run and we all gathered up to look back at the art work we left behind, five lines laid out from top to bottom that never crossed. I was thinking, "it can't get much better than that!" I was wrong. We broke apart our boards and put them into touring/climbing mode and started our climb about 1/3 up the Hochstetter Dome and although it got steep, the fresh snow was actually easier to climb in, no ankle rolling since we were not on any firm crust. Boards back together and as we all spread out and dropped this was the fruits of my labor, long drawn out lines in fresh snow and about halfway down tracking her own turns in untouched snow, Emari went flying by me, I smiled and laughed, but most of all felt elated and proud, this SheRex was bringing it full throttle. It must of been the end of that second run when I asked her sarcastically, "and how long have you been riding for?" the snow was so good, so fucking awesome we all agreed we wanted more of that. Stefan decided we'd take our skin track only continue to climb up towards the Summit, we'd break for lunch and get another run, though we would also make a few more descents down into the Tasman Glacier.
This climb became physically demanding for me, managing my temperature was the primary struggle. The sun was burning, not a cloud in the sky and the higher we climbed the hotter I became. Despite a single top layer and fully open vented shell jacket, no hat and no gloves, sweat and sunscreen burning my eyes to near blindness as well as fogged up sun glasses I felt like I was skinning by feel. By 1pm I had already drank my 2 liters of water. Only the thoughts of the fruits of my labor kept me pushing one ski in front of the other. At points my breathing seemed entirely too labored for comfort and yet the choice was simply, set a pace and continue, one step at a time became my mantra along with, "keep going mother fucker" and this is what I did. I was the last to make it, exhausted, humbled and grateful for the rest and food. Despite Emari almost losing one half of her splitboard as it slipped from her hands and took flight, she was not thinking about the safe area Stefan had marked off or crevasses, neither was I as we both set running after her board. It was her second diving effort that secure her board, perhaps both lucky that we did not fall into a crevasse, a reminder and lesson in how important it is to secure your gear.
After lunch we put our boards back together, back packs on our backs, we buckled in and for me what lied before was the best run of the entire trip, possibly my entire life when I think about the area we were riding in, how small I felt. No lines were crossed, each of use painted a line down the glacier in fresh powder running it out deeper down into the Tasman. And yes you have to like to climb or at least acknowledge, it is an intregal and major part of the journey. We skinned up the left side of the Tasman Glacier and I was physically depleted, completely spent. Every time we came over a ridge I kept thinking, "just one more and we'll be back at the hut," how wrong I was. Again, I needed to break it down, set a comfortable pace...one step at a time, one step at a time. We covered a lot of ground. It just seemed standard at this point, Emari and I would be the last to arrive at the hut. At this point I did not even care, I was so glad to be back and slide what seemed to be broken feet from my boots.....I was beat up, so hungry when the cheese, salami, crackers and humus were put out as a pre dinner snack I became the "salamitarian".....I did not give two shits what I was eating, I just needed to consume. We all ate a lot of food, I may have been in bed by 8pm though I had a minor freak out when Emari woke me to say she was not feeling well and wanted to borrow my head lamp, it seemed windy outside. It seemed like she was gone for 20 minutes or more and of course my crazy brain started to think the worst, that she slipped and fell to her death, how would I even deal with this, explain this to her parents how I drug her off to some glacier to climb and ride with merely 1.5 years of riding experience........how the fuck do you explain that? Panicked, with the light of my watch I was scurrying through our bunk trying to find her head lamp, put some clothes on and go looking for her when I heard the hut door open, the reflection of the head lamp in the glass......I was relieved!
Sunday August 28, 2011
Stefan's log: 28/08/11
Ski/Board through icefall and into Climbers col area, skinned to hut via right side of Tasman Glacier ( 2000m total ,10.5km )
Riding through this incredible and immense ice fall was breath taking and raised some challenges on a snowboard which Emari and I mustered through, mainly regulating speed and a few places that warranted climbing out of. I surely did not want Stefan's job here, navigating a route through this ice maze. At points it was like we were in an ice cathedral, this glacier, these mountains, this ice field, the immensity......I was reminded how small I actually was, how insignificant I was and am and yet so alive. After the icefall we skinned up an area known as the Climbers Col area, filled with crevasses, but once again Stefan put us in amazing snow. I cam remember it was pretty damn steep the are we stopped, the small working platform I had created to put my board back together, secure my pack, break down my poles, stand in my bindings with shaking legs as I bent over to buckle in.......another amazing run in fresh snow. This was the fruit that left us with a three hour climb back to the hut.......one step at a time. Halfway back we stopped to be educated on avalanche rescue and transceiver search. Emari and I managed to make it back before nightfall.
Monday August 29, 2011
Stefan's log: 29/08/11
Ski/Board down Tasman Glacier to Darwin Corner, (5.5km, 900m), Helicopter to MtCook Village, Car to Wanaka.
Both parties would awake to breakfast, packing up our gear, packing out the rubbish, and cleaning up the hut. This was the last day of our tour, one more skin up and and more of a long cruise down into the Tasman Glacier where it was previously arranged that our Heli would pick us up at 11am. Our packs were waited down, I couldn't tell you how much they weighed, but it seemed to be at least double in weight. Some minor adjustment riding with a pack so heavy. We had all of our gear in a pile waiting for the helicopter and when it arrived we stayed low handed gear to be loaded, found our seats, Emari up front, seat belt connected head set on so you could communicate with everyone in the Helicopter. It was a short flight out as we landed in Mt Cook Village. We unloaded the helicopter and loaded the car, changed into some dryer gear, used real toilets, running water. Both parties agreed to meet up for lunch at the Mt Cook village and we ended up eating at the Hermitage.
Three hours later we were back in Wanaka , at the office unloading gear. Dave had offered his home to shower and even stay to all of us, an offer we shouldn't refuse and didn't. It was the best damn shower and shave of my life. It reminded me of the surf charter I did in Indonesia, coming into Padang Port, the $5 hot shower and massage, the kind where they walk on your back. We all agreed to go out to dinner, a pub in Wanaka, quite good and glad that Stefan joined us. We did stay the night at Daves and the next day we got organized and gave ourselves two days to make the ferry in Picton, it was a lot of driving.
So in summary, what did this whole Summit to Sea experience mean? I think it was a humbling reminder that their is so much more than me, that in feeling small I could experience feeling so alive. I was reminded that we make many choices, the major one for me out on that glacier was not to give up, to meet the physical demands and challenges, to welcome suffering which made every turn that much more rewarding. I was reminded that traveling takes you out of your box and perhaps what I will remember most was the people we met, their stories, our stories and life experience shared, the laughs we shared, the food we shared and the reminder that life is short their are no guarantees, so hurry up and get the fuck out their and do more of what you just did. Finally, it was amazing to share this experience with a partner, who never gave up, never complained (except about her boots and feet), challenged herself beyond anything I would've imagined and snowboarded like a champ, smiling ear to ear.....perhaps the fruits of her suffering......truly a gift to have such an amazing partner to share such an amazing experience with. Rest assure their will be more........
New Zealand done............next?
Jumping to September 4, 2011.....Sunday
Made it to the airport to find out our Qantas flight back to the states was cancelled, lucky for me Emari has a cool head and the airline had already booked us on an Air New Zealand flight to San Francisco where we will clear customs and get on a American Airlines flight to JFK. Resent e-mail check confirmed our friends Jamie and Caroline are aware of the changes and will pick us up same day 9pmish. Soon to be back to the grind!
Monday, September 5, 2011
Friday, September 2, 2011
Skinning on Thin Ice: To and From Tasman Glacier
"We walked along the hard crest of the snowdrift/the shiver is not from the cold." How many times did I repeat these lines from Ahkmatova as I slid one foot in front of the other?
Our five day Summit to Sea excursion became a tour of the Tasman Glacier. When we met in Aspiring Guides' Wanaka office on Thursday morning, we learned that a storm was brewing in the west and a trek toward the Tasman Sea would not be possible. Though we might be able to Heli in, it would be unlikely if we would ever leave the hut. We had two other options: trek close to Mt Cook village in the nearby Silla Range or trek along the Tasman Glacier. We opted for the latter.
Besides our guide, Stefan, two other men would be a part of our trek. David lived in Auckland and had a holiday home in Wanaka. He was a retired contractor who had completed several long tramps in NZ and abroad and had recently been ski touring in Europe. The other member of our group was Tony, who lives outside of Sydney but was originally from the Czech Republic. He has done a lot of trekking and ski touring and was actually quite familiar with the glacier.
I keep starting and stopping this blog post. I thought I just needed some time to process the experience, but days later, I'm still struggling to describe what happened out there. It was physically grueling. On Saturday, after trekking over ten miles, I could barely feel my right foot, though I had a shooting pain along my right ankle. I was so exhausted, I felt wobbly. I needed to concentrate on each step or I was liable to trip myself.
And in all of that silence, along those blank canvas of glacial plains, my mind was a carnival. I thought about composting. I thought about when I practiced gymnastics as a girl. I returned to my first time snowboarding ever. I reminded myself that my zodiac sign is part goat. I recited every line of poetry I knew and lamented that I hadn't memorized more. I thought about the coming of the ice age and how the last of the dinosaurs must have moved in the snow. (I realize my time table could be off and that there may have been no dinosaurs when the snows came, but thinking of a brontosaurus on the glacier was oddly reassuring.) I thought of my parents, the house in Piney Hollow, all of my dead grandmothers. I thought of my sister, who had just completed a 24 hour run. I hummed Om. I called on the Medicine Buddha. I repeated two word phrases to help me keep pace. I focused on my breath. I tried not to count or focus on how many ridges we needed to cross. I kept my eyes on the ski tracks set by my compatriots and not the postage stamp sized hut in the distance. I took off my hat, my gloves, I'd sip water, I'd sing Om name shivah. I'd pause and take in the immense landscape. I'll tell myself to keep going. I'd tell myself that I could do it. I'd want to stop and sometimes I did. Terribly out of breath, sweating, aching. I'd start up again, try another breathing pattern, and let my mind whir.
I want to say it was the most physically grueling activity I've ever sustained. There's no coming out of this pose, or if you come out, you still have to go back into it. We trekked for hours at time, sometimes the incline would be over 30degrees. On Sunday, we trekked for three hours straight just to get back to the hut at the end of the day.
Amy Stephanik often reminds her level 2 yoga classes that suffering is optional. On a trip like this, the mental suffering is optional. I was thankful to have the ability to witness all that came up during the physically challenging parts of our trip. On Friday, when the storm was moving into the Tasman, we were just about to leave the Kelman Hut, where we had lunch. We had used the rope to climb down into the hut, which was super tough for AJ with his fear of heights. I was not phased by the height, but I discovered how afraid I am when I lose my footing. As we traversed an icy ledge only a few inches wide, my bottom foot kept slipping below me. Our guide was right there in case I fell, but it was so hard to take the next step when I already felt unsteady. Well, that's true in my daily life. I want both feet firmly rooted before I take the next step. Of course that isn't always possible, in my daily life and especially on the glacier. Just trust your gear. That's what Stefan said. And he was right. I wasn't going to fall, and if I did, he was right there to make sure I didn't fall too far.
I got better at taking those climbing risks. My ski touring technique improved and I slipped less and less. And as long as I was being careful and observant, there was no use worrying about all of the what-ifs when I could and should be using that energy more positively.
I was only foolish twice. Once I stopped on the side of a mountain too close to some ice cliffs so that AJ could get ahead to shoot some video. Thankfully nothing happened. Had the ice released I would have been blasted to smithereens and wouldn't be writing this post. The other mountain faux pax happened Saturday afternoon. We had hiked to the top of a mountain for lunch. As I was switching my board from skis back to a board, I kept getting the hinges caught and as I forcefully banged them apart (necessary when the hardware and your hands are frozen) one piece of the board slipped out of my hand and toward the ridge line. Stefan had clearly marked one side as a crevasse area and advised we stay in this small square of terrain. As half of my board zipped toward the ridge, I jumped up and stumbled before diving head first arms extended catching my board. All of those years of playing third base and laying out for line drives had paid off. I had bolted past AJ who was looking terrified (rightfully so) and our guide, who was pleased I did not lose my board or need to be rescued from a crevasse or the bottom of the ridge, which went on for miles. I had been careful of assembling my split board before this incident, but now I was even more observant.
I've only told you about the challenges of this expedition. Perhaps because you spend 90% of the time climbing and 10% of the time skiing/riding. The riding was phenomenal. I had the most amazing runs of my life on this trip. I rode through pristine, untouched powder that sprayed up with each turn. I was following AJ down the first run on Saturday morning when this incredible feeling of lightness and grace swept over me. I felt the smile on my face widening and I just let the board run, ripping right past AJ. Birds move with this ease. For a few moments gravity has been altered and I am barely touching earth. My eyes blur. I tear up from the wind and the jolt of adrenaline.
Our second run on Saturday, after an epic climb and my board mishap, was probably the best run of my life. It was 2/3rds longer than the first run and was perfect snow. I was squealing with delight as I rode down the bowl, and my permagrin grew as I looked back at our perfect lines and watched AJ shred the mountain as if it were a gigantic wave.
I felt confident riding, only took one or two minor tumbles when we rode over flat terrain with frozen tufts of crust and one of these was because I rode over my pole when I was trying to give myself a boost. I rode through ice cliffs, along tiny ridges, and down some of the steepest terrain I've ever encountered. And I managed to ride out of the glacier with my full pack without needing a boost or push from any of the skiers. AJ was even following my line.
Some people might wonder why I'd want to do something like this for my honeymoon. I mean thermals and wool socks are not very sexy lingerie and not showering for six days is few people's idea of paradise.
This entire trip has been incredible. Everyday has had its own adventure, some more dramatic than others. The glacier trek put me and AJ in entirely new terrain, physically, emotionally, mentally. We are both new to ski touring and had to experience the beginner's mind. We had to permit ourselves to take risks and to face fears. I listened to AJ's voice crack as he hesitated, confronting his fear of heights. I watched him focus as he traversed the steep cut out on the last part of the trek back to the hut. I saw him entirely spent at the top of the mountain, sunscreen and sweat burning his eyes. I heard the urgency in his voice when he asked me if I was okay with some of the sketchy traverses we were about to embark upon. Pushing ourselves in this type of environment brings new perspective to everything else.
The fact that AJ welcomes this type of challenge is infinitely attractive to me. Here is someone who is willing to confront his fears, to experience discomfort, to endure, to trust, and to open up to something new.
Our hut crew was fantastic. Another couple from VT and their guide were also there and we had some good laughs. I even taught a yoga class in the hut on Friday. Everyone was busting on AJ because he said that Saturday was better than sex...the amazing powder runs and the 10+ miles trekking. I'm not saying that glacial treks should be substituted for sex (or vice versa), but this experience taps into something as primal as sex. It was a moving meditation. We trekked through the glacier with a reverence and respect for the power and danger the earth wields. What happens if we extend this philosophy to our lovers and friends? That's another post/essay.
We're back in Raglan again. A day and a half before we fly back to the States where a hurricane has ransacked our coast, where a family I may never meet buries a teenage boy my college students taught last fall. A mentor's husband has also died.
I remember telling myself "be here now" at some point during a long climb. It's not just split boarding/ski touring where the majority of the time is an uphill climb.
I am so fortunate to have found a partner who understands this and who loves me unconditionally. I am also grateful for the circle of family and friends who have made my time away easier. Those involved in Operation Get Elsie to High Ground, you rock! And Pam, you always make my job easier and more fun.
Mom and Dad, you'd love it here...in a warmer season, you could tour wineries, where sheep graze in the vineyards, hike the pristine countryside, and fish in one mirror lake after another.
Over and out, for now.
Our five day Summit to Sea excursion became a tour of the Tasman Glacier. When we met in Aspiring Guides' Wanaka office on Thursday morning, we learned that a storm was brewing in the west and a trek toward the Tasman Sea would not be possible. Though we might be able to Heli in, it would be unlikely if we would ever leave the hut. We had two other options: trek close to Mt Cook village in the nearby Silla Range or trek along the Tasman Glacier. We opted for the latter.
Besides our guide, Stefan, two other men would be a part of our trek. David lived in Auckland and had a holiday home in Wanaka. He was a retired contractor who had completed several long tramps in NZ and abroad and had recently been ski touring in Europe. The other member of our group was Tony, who lives outside of Sydney but was originally from the Czech Republic. He has done a lot of trekking and ski touring and was actually quite familiar with the glacier.
I keep starting and stopping this blog post. I thought I just needed some time to process the experience, but days later, I'm still struggling to describe what happened out there. It was physically grueling. On Saturday, after trekking over ten miles, I could barely feel my right foot, though I had a shooting pain along my right ankle. I was so exhausted, I felt wobbly. I needed to concentrate on each step or I was liable to trip myself.
And in all of that silence, along those blank canvas of glacial plains, my mind was a carnival. I thought about composting. I thought about when I practiced gymnastics as a girl. I returned to my first time snowboarding ever. I reminded myself that my zodiac sign is part goat. I recited every line of poetry I knew and lamented that I hadn't memorized more. I thought about the coming of the ice age and how the last of the dinosaurs must have moved in the snow. (I realize my time table could be off and that there may have been no dinosaurs when the snows came, but thinking of a brontosaurus on the glacier was oddly reassuring.) I thought of my parents, the house in Piney Hollow, all of my dead grandmothers. I thought of my sister, who had just completed a 24 hour run. I hummed Om. I called on the Medicine Buddha. I repeated two word phrases to help me keep pace. I focused on my breath. I tried not to count or focus on how many ridges we needed to cross. I kept my eyes on the ski tracks set by my compatriots and not the postage stamp sized hut in the distance. I took off my hat, my gloves, I'd sip water, I'd sing Om name shivah. I'd pause and take in the immense landscape. I'll tell myself to keep going. I'd tell myself that I could do it. I'd want to stop and sometimes I did. Terribly out of breath, sweating, aching. I'd start up again, try another breathing pattern, and let my mind whir.
I want to say it was the most physically grueling activity I've ever sustained. There's no coming out of this pose, or if you come out, you still have to go back into it. We trekked for hours at time, sometimes the incline would be over 30degrees. On Sunday, we trekked for three hours straight just to get back to the hut at the end of the day.
Amy Stephanik often reminds her level 2 yoga classes that suffering is optional. On a trip like this, the mental suffering is optional. I was thankful to have the ability to witness all that came up during the physically challenging parts of our trip. On Friday, when the storm was moving into the Tasman, we were just about to leave the Kelman Hut, where we had lunch. We had used the rope to climb down into the hut, which was super tough for AJ with his fear of heights. I was not phased by the height, but I discovered how afraid I am when I lose my footing. As we traversed an icy ledge only a few inches wide, my bottom foot kept slipping below me. Our guide was right there in case I fell, but it was so hard to take the next step when I already felt unsteady. Well, that's true in my daily life. I want both feet firmly rooted before I take the next step. Of course that isn't always possible, in my daily life and especially on the glacier. Just trust your gear. That's what Stefan said. And he was right. I wasn't going to fall, and if I did, he was right there to make sure I didn't fall too far.
I got better at taking those climbing risks. My ski touring technique improved and I slipped less and less. And as long as I was being careful and observant, there was no use worrying about all of the what-ifs when I could and should be using that energy more positively.
I was only foolish twice. Once I stopped on the side of a mountain too close to some ice cliffs so that AJ could get ahead to shoot some video. Thankfully nothing happened. Had the ice released I would have been blasted to smithereens and wouldn't be writing this post. The other mountain faux pax happened Saturday afternoon. We had hiked to the top of a mountain for lunch. As I was switching my board from skis back to a board, I kept getting the hinges caught and as I forcefully banged them apart (necessary when the hardware and your hands are frozen) one piece of the board slipped out of my hand and toward the ridge line. Stefan had clearly marked one side as a crevasse area and advised we stay in this small square of terrain. As half of my board zipped toward the ridge, I jumped up and stumbled before diving head first arms extended catching my board. All of those years of playing third base and laying out for line drives had paid off. I had bolted past AJ who was looking terrified (rightfully so) and our guide, who was pleased I did not lose my board or need to be rescued from a crevasse or the bottom of the ridge, which went on for miles. I had been careful of assembling my split board before this incident, but now I was even more observant.
I've only told you about the challenges of this expedition. Perhaps because you spend 90% of the time climbing and 10% of the time skiing/riding. The riding was phenomenal. I had the most amazing runs of my life on this trip. I rode through pristine, untouched powder that sprayed up with each turn. I was following AJ down the first run on Saturday morning when this incredible feeling of lightness and grace swept over me. I felt the smile on my face widening and I just let the board run, ripping right past AJ. Birds move with this ease. For a few moments gravity has been altered and I am barely touching earth. My eyes blur. I tear up from the wind and the jolt of adrenaline.
Our second run on Saturday, after an epic climb and my board mishap, was probably the best run of my life. It was 2/3rds longer than the first run and was perfect snow. I was squealing with delight as I rode down the bowl, and my permagrin grew as I looked back at our perfect lines and watched AJ shred the mountain as if it were a gigantic wave.
I felt confident riding, only took one or two minor tumbles when we rode over flat terrain with frozen tufts of crust and one of these was because I rode over my pole when I was trying to give myself a boost. I rode through ice cliffs, along tiny ridges, and down some of the steepest terrain I've ever encountered. And I managed to ride out of the glacier with my full pack without needing a boost or push from any of the skiers. AJ was even following my line.
Some people might wonder why I'd want to do something like this for my honeymoon. I mean thermals and wool socks are not very sexy lingerie and not showering for six days is few people's idea of paradise.
This entire trip has been incredible. Everyday has had its own adventure, some more dramatic than others. The glacier trek put me and AJ in entirely new terrain, physically, emotionally, mentally. We are both new to ski touring and had to experience the beginner's mind. We had to permit ourselves to take risks and to face fears. I listened to AJ's voice crack as he hesitated, confronting his fear of heights. I watched him focus as he traversed the steep cut out on the last part of the trek back to the hut. I saw him entirely spent at the top of the mountain, sunscreen and sweat burning his eyes. I heard the urgency in his voice when he asked me if I was okay with some of the sketchy traverses we were about to embark upon. Pushing ourselves in this type of environment brings new perspective to everything else.
The fact that AJ welcomes this type of challenge is infinitely attractive to me. Here is someone who is willing to confront his fears, to experience discomfort, to endure, to trust, and to open up to something new.
Our hut crew was fantastic. Another couple from VT and their guide were also there and we had some good laughs. I even taught a yoga class in the hut on Friday. Everyone was busting on AJ because he said that Saturday was better than sex...the amazing powder runs and the 10+ miles trekking. I'm not saying that glacial treks should be substituted for sex (or vice versa), but this experience taps into something as primal as sex. It was a moving meditation. We trekked through the glacier with a reverence and respect for the power and danger the earth wields. What happens if we extend this philosophy to our lovers and friends? That's another post/essay.
We're back in Raglan again. A day and a half before we fly back to the States where a hurricane has ransacked our coast, where a family I may never meet buries a teenage boy my college students taught last fall. A mentor's husband has also died.
I remember telling myself "be here now" at some point during a long climb. It's not just split boarding/ski touring where the majority of the time is an uphill climb.
I am so fortunate to have found a partner who understands this and who loves me unconditionally. I am also grateful for the circle of family and friends who have made my time away easier. Those involved in Operation Get Elsie to High Ground, you rock! And Pam, you always make my job easier and more fun.
Mom and Dad, you'd love it here...in a warmer season, you could tour wineries, where sheep graze in the vineyards, hike the pristine countryside, and fish in one mirror lake after another.
Over and out, for now.
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
Six Blue Birds
Wednesday August 24, 2011
I awoke after sleeping 10 hours, boy was I shot out from the previous epic day of snowboarding. It was six in the morning, I turned on the gas to start the coffee. Emari was still in bed but now awake and I asked her if she wanted eggs, which she did...I warned her nothing fancy, straight up scrambled eggs.
We rolled out of our camp site at 7:45am so we could make it to Treble Cone for the 8:30am shuttle which we made. It was suppose to be an overcast day with rain and snow at higher elevations but we were given another blue bird day, more windy up top, some passing clouds through out the day. It did not soften up like yesterday but by noon we were off-piste and riding all over the place. Three blue bird days in a row with yesterday as epic as the come, only thing that would have made it better was 24" of powder under a blue sunny sky. This was my 97th day riding for this season, it sure has been an amazing year.
Tomorrow morning we report to the Aspiring Guides Office to review our gear, the itinerary, the weather etc. We are expecting some foul weather to move through, hopefully nothing that will prevent the Heli from trans prong us. At this point it seems it may just be Emari and I with a guide, this could be the icing on the cake but I can't allow myself to get my hopes up, the weather could shut down the whole trip, just give us a clear window so we can get out in the elements, start climbing and riding, climbing and riding, climbing and riding...soaking in the magnitude of the experience.
I asked Emari how long she has been riding for? She responded, "one full season and some extras..." damn she is ripping.
AJ
I awoke after sleeping 10 hours, boy was I shot out from the previous epic day of snowboarding. It was six in the morning, I turned on the gas to start the coffee. Emari was still in bed but now awake and I asked her if she wanted eggs, which she did...I warned her nothing fancy, straight up scrambled eggs.
We rolled out of our camp site at 7:45am so we could make it to Treble Cone for the 8:30am shuttle which we made. It was suppose to be an overcast day with rain and snow at higher elevations but we were given another blue bird day, more windy up top, some passing clouds through out the day. It did not soften up like yesterday but by noon we were off-piste and riding all over the place. Three blue bird days in a row with yesterday as epic as the come, only thing that would have made it better was 24" of powder under a blue sunny sky. This was my 97th day riding for this season, it sure has been an amazing year.
Tomorrow morning we report to the Aspiring Guides Office to review our gear, the itinerary, the weather etc. We are expecting some foul weather to move through, hopefully nothing that will prevent the Heli from trans prong us. At this point it seems it may just be Emari and I with a guide, this could be the icing on the cake but I can't allow myself to get my hopes up, the weather could shut down the whole trip, just give us a clear window so we can get out in the elements, start climbing and riding, climbing and riding, climbing and riding...soaking in the magnitude of the experience.
I asked Emari how long she has been riding for? She responded, "one full season and some extras..." damn she is ripping.
AJ
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
A Month After the Wedding and Still on Our Honeymoon
August 21-23, 2011
Sunday morning we woke early to catch a taxi for our Milford Sound coach/cruise/coach tower. We had been advised by others and the Internet that the road to Milford Sound is as dodgy as they come, complete with multiple avalanche no stopping zones and a tunnel carved through mountain, still bare, jagged rock along the inner walls with no lights inside. And though we're plenty adventurous, we opted to let someone else steer us toward our death, which we'd have a spectacular view of from our angled seats and glass ceiling coach.
Our driver Ben was a hoot. He had AJ laughing along each mountain pass. "You know in New Zealand, the sheep have two teats, one for strawberry milk and the other for chocolate." And "the water in Lake Wakatipu is 98% pure. The 2% is fish."
He navigated the hills and vales, steep inclines, windy gard rail-less curves and slowed or stopped at various scenic spots. We exited the coach a few times; once to walk along an ice covered walkway (that would have been closed in the states, or heavily salted) to view and photograph mirror lake. It was stunning. The huge snow capped mountains shimmered in the water. And young and old gripped at the metal railing skating across the footpath.
When we arrived at Milford Sound we boarded a large ship. There were two floors accessible to passengers and a main and top deck. We quickly scarfed part of our picnic lunch and raced to the ship's bow. The sky was as clear as the water and there was a light breeze. We honestly could not have requested better weather. We learned that Milford Sound is actually a fiord, carved by a massive glacier a super long time ago. There were four permanent waterfalls, and lots of smaller streams down the towering mountain walls due to snow melt. We saw a bunch of juvenile fur seals sunning on the rocks and we saw two fiord land penguins!!! They did appear until the end of our cruise around the fiord, and I had almost given up hope. Even thought when we were out at the end of the fiord on the open seas, please just swim by! But these two came through and the one was a real showman, flipping around. The boat pulled right beneath the last waterfall, which the guide said was twice the size of Niagara Falls.
The scale here is astounding and every drive is a scenic postcard. This country is picturesque and the people value their natural treasures. The ride home was more purple mountain majesty, sparkling lakes, rolling pasture, flocks of squeezable sheep, intelligent looking cows nodding as we pass, and more of Ben's banter interspersed with a history of the area.
Back in Queenstown, we picked up AJ's board. He was f'n happy. The p-tex and rail surgery were successful. His split board was tip top again. We returned his board to the camper and decided to splurge a second night. We tried a little Thai restaurant that AJ scoped out the day before. At was after 10 when we arrived home, and we planned to pull out of the holiday park around 6-6:30am the next morning to make our way to Treble Cone Ski Area in Wanaka.
True to form, we pulled out of Queenstown at 6:30am. And the adventure began. The first mountain pass of Crown Range Road (the name itself implies its majestic, mountainy nature) was all ice and grit. Our humble camper van was spinning and grunting up the pass. We weren't sure we were going to make it. AJ said, "We might not be making this one. Hold on tight."
I sent out a little prayer to the universe that we would slide backwards down the pass and crush the car behind us. Grunting and heaving up the pass we made it, and the roads improved with the emerging sun. We drove through Cardrona and then Wanaka, and we arrived at Treble Cone a few minutes after 8am. As usual the ominous drive at your own risk/carry chains signs were posted everywhere. This camper van was not going to even attempt the 7km climb.
I had read on the website that the mountain offered a shuttle from the base to the carpark through the morning and a return shuttle in the evening. AJ was so freaked at the signs and the looks of the access road (you can see it snaking up the mountain from the base) that he almost drove us back to Cardrona because he was sure he'd seen something about camper vans there. I protested and pulled up Treble Cone's website, thankfully we had service!
"See. Let's at least wait until 8:30. We're here now and might as well see."
And the shuttle arrived promptly at 8:30. We were on our way up the pass with a few other folks who opted not to drive their camper van or rental cars up. We'd learn on the return trip that a few years ago a carload of folks went right off the cliff. They all died. Not terribly surprising. And the mountain put a guard rail up after that, but as anyone traveling NZ knows, those things are more for looks, not safety.
Treble Cone is a beaut. So much open terrain. It was a bit hard packed in a the early morning but by midday, the snow had softened up quite a bit. AJ and I stuck to one side of the mountain for most of the day but ventured to some of the steeper chutes later on. And of course ended up exactly where we didn't want to be...that one rutty chute near the lift with some exposed rock and a slick narrow part. We found our way through and around and were really just stunned at the range of terrain, the lack of trees, the sheer cliff drops on the other side of a knoll, and the 360 postcard view. Overall, a fantastic day of riding at a new mountain.
We drove back to Wanaka to dump and fill the camper, pick up a few groceries, and find a place to camp up. Wanaka, like Queenstown, has very strict camping rules. We stopped at the local I-site and found out there's a Department of Conservation site in Albert Town, a few minutes outside of Wanaka. We found our way there and decided to fill out the registration and pay the $14 fee for three nights.
This morning we woke, ate, and made our way back to the mountain for the 8:30am shuttle. It was supposed to be as warm as yesterday but with a bit more wind in the afternoon. It felt like a spring day at Killington. We were boiling after our first run and rode with all of our vents open. The snow was so soft but midday, the only thing better would have been powder. We charged all over the mountain, riding through gullies and gorges, along ridges, and even ventured into one of the large bowls on the edge of the mountain. It was a toe side screamer to get out of there, as in not proceed all the way to the bottom and have to hike back to the lift area. Just smooth, buttery turns all over. My two favorites included a gulley that was like a half pipe and a narrow chute that was carved so steeply and cleanly by everyone riding it, you could rip through there like a pinball (I will admit it took three tries to not land on my ass after being launched out of it, but it was so much fun, I didn't mind falling).
We rode until we were shot out. Even AJ was spent, so spent he's fast asleep now. It's only 8pm here :-). And I was hoping we could play a game of backgammon before bed.
Back to Treble Cone tomorrow for our last day of riding before our five day back country split board tour. This whole trip has been incredible. I could not have imagined the landscape, the adventure, the laughter, the love I'm experiencing.
I asked AJ if he thought the people who live here forget about the postcard views, the way I might dismiss the scenic sunset over the inner coastal waterway on my drive home from work or the ocean at the end of my street. I want to make sure I celebrate these things and I want to get more involved in preserving what we have and in supporting those initiatives. Of course I recycle, but I don't even know about Ventnor City's policies. And we could and should buy a more water efficient shower head and start collecting rainwater. And I keep attempting to compost but am afraid I might be doing it wrong. I am sure that I know someone who can give me some tips.
It's all about living mindfully, whether one has compassion for a person or the ecosystem. I can do a little better. I suppose we all could.
Sunday morning we woke early to catch a taxi for our Milford Sound coach/cruise/coach tower. We had been advised by others and the Internet that the road to Milford Sound is as dodgy as they come, complete with multiple avalanche no stopping zones and a tunnel carved through mountain, still bare, jagged rock along the inner walls with no lights inside. And though we're plenty adventurous, we opted to let someone else steer us toward our death, which we'd have a spectacular view of from our angled seats and glass ceiling coach.
Our driver Ben was a hoot. He had AJ laughing along each mountain pass. "You know in New Zealand, the sheep have two teats, one for strawberry milk and the other for chocolate." And "the water in Lake Wakatipu is 98% pure. The 2% is fish."
He navigated the hills and vales, steep inclines, windy gard rail-less curves and slowed or stopped at various scenic spots. We exited the coach a few times; once to walk along an ice covered walkway (that would have been closed in the states, or heavily salted) to view and photograph mirror lake. It was stunning. The huge snow capped mountains shimmered in the water. And young and old gripped at the metal railing skating across the footpath.
When we arrived at Milford Sound we boarded a large ship. There were two floors accessible to passengers and a main and top deck. We quickly scarfed part of our picnic lunch and raced to the ship's bow. The sky was as clear as the water and there was a light breeze. We honestly could not have requested better weather. We learned that Milford Sound is actually a fiord, carved by a massive glacier a super long time ago. There were four permanent waterfalls, and lots of smaller streams down the towering mountain walls due to snow melt. We saw a bunch of juvenile fur seals sunning on the rocks and we saw two fiord land penguins!!! They did appear until the end of our cruise around the fiord, and I had almost given up hope. Even thought when we were out at the end of the fiord on the open seas, please just swim by! But these two came through and the one was a real showman, flipping around. The boat pulled right beneath the last waterfall, which the guide said was twice the size of Niagara Falls.
The scale here is astounding and every drive is a scenic postcard. This country is picturesque and the people value their natural treasures. The ride home was more purple mountain majesty, sparkling lakes, rolling pasture, flocks of squeezable sheep, intelligent looking cows nodding as we pass, and more of Ben's banter interspersed with a history of the area.
Back in Queenstown, we picked up AJ's board. He was f'n happy. The p-tex and rail surgery were successful. His split board was tip top again. We returned his board to the camper and decided to splurge a second night. We tried a little Thai restaurant that AJ scoped out the day before. At was after 10 when we arrived home, and we planned to pull out of the holiday park around 6-6:30am the next morning to make our way to Treble Cone Ski Area in Wanaka.
True to form, we pulled out of Queenstown at 6:30am. And the adventure began. The first mountain pass of Crown Range Road (the name itself implies its majestic, mountainy nature) was all ice and grit. Our humble camper van was spinning and grunting up the pass. We weren't sure we were going to make it. AJ said, "We might not be making this one. Hold on tight."
I sent out a little prayer to the universe that we would slide backwards down the pass and crush the car behind us. Grunting and heaving up the pass we made it, and the roads improved with the emerging sun. We drove through Cardrona and then Wanaka, and we arrived at Treble Cone a few minutes after 8am. As usual the ominous drive at your own risk/carry chains signs were posted everywhere. This camper van was not going to even attempt the 7km climb.
I had read on the website that the mountain offered a shuttle from the base to the carpark through the morning and a return shuttle in the evening. AJ was so freaked at the signs and the looks of the access road (you can see it snaking up the mountain from the base) that he almost drove us back to Cardrona because he was sure he'd seen something about camper vans there. I protested and pulled up Treble Cone's website, thankfully we had service!
"See. Let's at least wait until 8:30. We're here now and might as well see."
And the shuttle arrived promptly at 8:30. We were on our way up the pass with a few other folks who opted not to drive their camper van or rental cars up. We'd learn on the return trip that a few years ago a carload of folks went right off the cliff. They all died. Not terribly surprising. And the mountain put a guard rail up after that, but as anyone traveling NZ knows, those things are more for looks, not safety.
Treble Cone is a beaut. So much open terrain. It was a bit hard packed in a the early morning but by midday, the snow had softened up quite a bit. AJ and I stuck to one side of the mountain for most of the day but ventured to some of the steeper chutes later on. And of course ended up exactly where we didn't want to be...that one rutty chute near the lift with some exposed rock and a slick narrow part. We found our way through and around and were really just stunned at the range of terrain, the lack of trees, the sheer cliff drops on the other side of a knoll, and the 360 postcard view. Overall, a fantastic day of riding at a new mountain.
We drove back to Wanaka to dump and fill the camper, pick up a few groceries, and find a place to camp up. Wanaka, like Queenstown, has very strict camping rules. We stopped at the local I-site and found out there's a Department of Conservation site in Albert Town, a few minutes outside of Wanaka. We found our way there and decided to fill out the registration and pay the $14 fee for three nights.
This morning we woke, ate, and made our way back to the mountain for the 8:30am shuttle. It was supposed to be as warm as yesterday but with a bit more wind in the afternoon. It felt like a spring day at Killington. We were boiling after our first run and rode with all of our vents open. The snow was so soft but midday, the only thing better would have been powder. We charged all over the mountain, riding through gullies and gorges, along ridges, and even ventured into one of the large bowls on the edge of the mountain. It was a toe side screamer to get out of there, as in not proceed all the way to the bottom and have to hike back to the lift area. Just smooth, buttery turns all over. My two favorites included a gulley that was like a half pipe and a narrow chute that was carved so steeply and cleanly by everyone riding it, you could rip through there like a pinball (I will admit it took three tries to not land on my ass after being launched out of it, but it was so much fun, I didn't mind falling).
We rode until we were shot out. Even AJ was spent, so spent he's fast asleep now. It's only 8pm here :-). And I was hoping we could play a game of backgammon before bed.
Back to Treble Cone tomorrow for our last day of riding before our five day back country split board tour. This whole trip has been incredible. I could not have imagined the landscape, the adventure, the laughter, the love I'm experiencing.
I asked AJ if he thought the people who live here forget about the postcard views, the way I might dismiss the scenic sunset over the inner coastal waterway on my drive home from work or the ocean at the end of my street. I want to make sure I celebrate these things and I want to get more involved in preserving what we have and in supporting those initiatives. Of course I recycle, but I don't even know about Ventnor City's policies. And we could and should buy a more water efficient shower head and start collecting rainwater. And I keep attempting to compost but am afraid I might be doing it wrong. I am sure that I know someone who can give me some tips.
It's all about living mindfully, whether one has compassion for a person or the ecosystem. I can do a little better. I suppose we all could.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Reflections
Some things I've learned or come to realize while traveling abroad in a camper van.
1. If you really want to know if you have the right partner intentionally go on a trip that
will create some discomfort....tight quarters, no escape from the others company, at times
Sheltered in a camper van but fucking cold, despite having excellent gear, able to weather
each others freak outs without personalizing them. Perhaps even before people marry they
should experience something like this, the litmus test for partnership. Let me tell you
I have been reminded time and time again, I found a good one!!!
2. I realize that showering daily is completely excessive and a waist of resources, every
three to four days seems more than adequate, especially in the colder months where one
is less apt to sweat. Their is possibly one exception, cleaning up before sex, unless
You like it dirty.
3. I realize now that the same set of clothes can be worn at least 2-3 times before they need
To be laundered, perhaps under garments every 1-2 days.
4. Sadly on this trip it has become even more apparent that I need to do more regarding being
Green minded. They recycle and seem to conserve everything here in NZ. Sadly the human
Race seems to take significantly more than what it gives back.
5. Interesting enough I work with people and honestly enjoy the work I do, but have been
reminded over and over again that the minimalist of human interaction seems really well
fitting.
6. the final reflection for now is simply that I realize I am at my best and happiest when I
Am traveling, so rest assure I will return home, to work a little more, squirrel away a
Little more coin and be planning the next travels...our next travels...AJ and Emari's next
travels.
Perhaps their will be more reflections to follow......AJ
1. If you really want to know if you have the right partner intentionally go on a trip that
will create some discomfort....tight quarters, no escape from the others company, at times
Sheltered in a camper van but fucking cold, despite having excellent gear, able to weather
each others freak outs without personalizing them. Perhaps even before people marry they
should experience something like this, the litmus test for partnership. Let me tell you
I have been reminded time and time again, I found a good one!!!
2. I realize that showering daily is completely excessive and a waist of resources, every
three to four days seems more than adequate, especially in the colder months where one
is less apt to sweat. Their is possibly one exception, cleaning up before sex, unless
You like it dirty.
3. I realize now that the same set of clothes can be worn at least 2-3 times before they need
To be laundered, perhaps under garments every 1-2 days.
4. Sadly on this trip it has become even more apparent that I need to do more regarding being
Green minded. They recycle and seem to conserve everything here in NZ. Sadly the human
Race seems to take significantly more than what it gives back.
5. Interesting enough I work with people and honestly enjoy the work I do, but have been
reminded over and over again that the minimalist of human interaction seems really well
fitting.
6. the final reflection for now is simply that I realize I am at my best and happiest when I
Am traveling, so rest assure I will return home, to work a little more, squirrel away a
Little more coin and be planning the next travels...our next travels...AJ and Emari's next
travels.
Perhaps their will be more reflections to follow......AJ
Titanic, Cannon Ball and Iron Cross
Saturday August 20, 2011
Emari and I awoke to what these Kiwi's would call a "nippy day" at Jubilee Park where we camped up along the water 1.7km from the heart of Queenstown. We checked into our Holiday Park with out camper van and let me say Emari did an outstanding job sniffing this place out, one block from the Skyline Gondola and a short walk down the hill into the main drag of Queenstown. We parked into our powered slot and plugged in immediately to get some heat going, both electric and gas heat fired up, probably the warmest this rig has been.
After cereal and coffee we started two loads of over due laundry and took a walk into town to scope out a place that supposedly does ski and snowboard repairs and tune jobs. We located the place Emari had found on-line and headed downstairs to the shop. Although no one was there I liked what I saw, base grinder and a full shop fully set up. I briefly spoke to a guy who assured me my split board could be fixed but they needed to see it. We went back to the camper van and retrieved my split board and upon return we dealt with a young lady who was friendly and stated the guy who will do the repairs will not be in until 1pm. In good faith, not knowing the full price I told her to get all the work done.
Emari and I walked through Queenstown which reminded me of a ski community out west. We saw more people walking the streets with snowboards getting ready to hop some buses to the mountains...they all picked a beautiful blue bird day to ride, it was cold like a Late March day at Killington, temps in the mountains, I'm guessing mid to upper 20's. Our plans were for our 6 line Zip-line tour from the top of Skyline Gondola scheduled for 1:40pm. Before walking back to the Holiday Park we bought two venison pies and a thai curry chicken pie but we did not eat them until we got back to the camper van.....the were so damn good. Who killed Bambi? Who cares, that was some good viddles!!! Venison seems to be the only red meat I go for, particularly venison jerky.
By the time we finished eating it was time to retrieve our laundry and walk to the gondola site. Had we known that we could hike to the top and save $50NZ we would have but the gondola ride was cool, one of the steepest gondolas I have ever seen or ridden with unbelievable views of Queenstown and the lake, the mountains etc. Once up top we walked around, the balcony up top just freaked me out since I am afraid of heights. It took at least 15 minutes before I reached for the railing and slowly pull myself towards the railing. Looking down below we watched someone bungee jump and twenty minutes later we watched someone bungee swing.
We checked in for our zip-line tour but still had 45 minutes to kill so we walked around, browsed through some of the shops and enjoyed the amazing views. I was thinking based on my behavior on the peak balcony, "how the hell am I going to do this Zip-line tour" but knew regardless I was just going to do it.
We returned to "Ziptrek Ecotours" at 1:30 for our 1:40pm three plus hour tour....almost like Giligon's Island. We really have not been around people in 20 plus days so it was difficult initially being around people all doing this touristy thing, but once we got started I was able to turn off my judgmental mind and really enjoyed our guides and the crew we were with. Once fitted with our harness and helmet we were ready for line one. Emari was the giddy giggling champ, you could hear her laughing almost the entire way wether she was zipping away from the platform or towards one. 6 amazing descents, the last one is the steepest and fastest in the world and it was so cool flying through the trees, ground snow covered which normally was not so but the snow storm of the century blanketed much of NZ. It was guided well and Eco friendly information and education was also provided. Made me really think just how fucked the human race is at large, the way we take and don't give back. New Zealand seems to be ahead of the rest of the world in these endeavors but with a population of 4.4 million people this is much easier to tackle.
Back to Zipping......with trembling legs, I was buckled in and you are simply directed to walk off a set of steps, stepping off into the abyss....so, so cool. What is amazing is that we were high up, but because of the trees I never felt like I was on an exposed ledge so my fear of heights was tempered outside of walking off the short flight of steps into the abyss. Emari and I did it all, straight zipping to cannon balling, to the titanic where you walk off the steps backwards, spread your arms, close your eyes and fall backwards. We zipped 50mph upside down, arms out like an iron cross. Great views and I even got to see Mt Mordor from Lord of the Rings. A great trek through the forest, though slippery with all the recent snow fall to the sixth and final line, the steepest and fastest in the world. Emari performed perfectly the Titantic to upside down iron cross to cannon ball up to speeds of 50mph. This one freaked me out a little but I managed to get my wobbly legs to walk right off the last step right into the abyss to an upside down iron cross. This was a really enjoyable tour and great way to see and experience such amazing beauty, in the mountains, the lake, the forest....the pure fresh air...like Emari, this place is amazing.
After the tour we decided to walk into town and splurge for dinner.....imagine that, perhaps the two cheapest and frugal tourist in NZ. We settled on a Korean restaurant. I had never actually eaten Korean food and although I had no idea what I was eating at least half the time it was a great meal, food was awesome. Topped off with a mocachino and Emari got a white mochachino and we walked back to the camper van. We played a few games of backgammon I got my ass kicked, pushed the "undo" button at one point which negated one of Emari's rolls and was accused of cheating. Actually it was cheating. The way she plays you would think we were playing chest for life or death...ten minute decisions before making a move. If I am not mistaken she has won four games to my two. Needless to say I need to find a game that increases my odds at winning as I am growing tired of losing!
Tomorrow we get picked up at 6:45am for our all day tour to Milford Sound. From what I gather, it is almost destined to be breath taking and amazing. Still entertaining my worst impatient decision of the trip to drive away from 5' of powder, but starting to get over it with days like today.
Emari and I awoke to what these Kiwi's would call a "nippy day" at Jubilee Park where we camped up along the water 1.7km from the heart of Queenstown. We checked into our Holiday Park with out camper van and let me say Emari did an outstanding job sniffing this place out, one block from the Skyline Gondola and a short walk down the hill into the main drag of Queenstown. We parked into our powered slot and plugged in immediately to get some heat going, both electric and gas heat fired up, probably the warmest this rig has been.
After cereal and coffee we started two loads of over due laundry and took a walk into town to scope out a place that supposedly does ski and snowboard repairs and tune jobs. We located the place Emari had found on-line and headed downstairs to the shop. Although no one was there I liked what I saw, base grinder and a full shop fully set up. I briefly spoke to a guy who assured me my split board could be fixed but they needed to see it. We went back to the camper van and retrieved my split board and upon return we dealt with a young lady who was friendly and stated the guy who will do the repairs will not be in until 1pm. In good faith, not knowing the full price I told her to get all the work done.
Emari and I walked through Queenstown which reminded me of a ski community out west. We saw more people walking the streets with snowboards getting ready to hop some buses to the mountains...they all picked a beautiful blue bird day to ride, it was cold like a Late March day at Killington, temps in the mountains, I'm guessing mid to upper 20's. Our plans were for our 6 line Zip-line tour from the top of Skyline Gondola scheduled for 1:40pm. Before walking back to the Holiday Park we bought two venison pies and a thai curry chicken pie but we did not eat them until we got back to the camper van.....the were so damn good. Who killed Bambi? Who cares, that was some good viddles!!! Venison seems to be the only red meat I go for, particularly venison jerky.
By the time we finished eating it was time to retrieve our laundry and walk to the gondola site. Had we known that we could hike to the top and save $50NZ we would have but the gondola ride was cool, one of the steepest gondolas I have ever seen or ridden with unbelievable views of Queenstown and the lake, the mountains etc. Once up top we walked around, the balcony up top just freaked me out since I am afraid of heights. It took at least 15 minutes before I reached for the railing and slowly pull myself towards the railing. Looking down below we watched someone bungee jump and twenty minutes later we watched someone bungee swing.
We checked in for our zip-line tour but still had 45 minutes to kill so we walked around, browsed through some of the shops and enjoyed the amazing views. I was thinking based on my behavior on the peak balcony, "how the hell am I going to do this Zip-line tour" but knew regardless I was just going to do it.
We returned to "Ziptrek Ecotours" at 1:30 for our 1:40pm three plus hour tour....almost like Giligon's Island. We really have not been around people in 20 plus days so it was difficult initially being around people all doing this touristy thing, but once we got started I was able to turn off my judgmental mind and really enjoyed our guides and the crew we were with. Once fitted with our harness and helmet we were ready for line one. Emari was the giddy giggling champ, you could hear her laughing almost the entire way wether she was zipping away from the platform or towards one. 6 amazing descents, the last one is the steepest and fastest in the world and it was so cool flying through the trees, ground snow covered which normally was not so but the snow storm of the century blanketed much of NZ. It was guided well and Eco friendly information and education was also provided. Made me really think just how fucked the human race is at large, the way we take and don't give back. New Zealand seems to be ahead of the rest of the world in these endeavors but with a population of 4.4 million people this is much easier to tackle.
Back to Zipping......with trembling legs, I was buckled in and you are simply directed to walk off a set of steps, stepping off into the abyss....so, so cool. What is amazing is that we were high up, but because of the trees I never felt like I was on an exposed ledge so my fear of heights was tempered outside of walking off the short flight of steps into the abyss. Emari and I did it all, straight zipping to cannon balling, to the titanic where you walk off the steps backwards, spread your arms, close your eyes and fall backwards. We zipped 50mph upside down, arms out like an iron cross. Great views and I even got to see Mt Mordor from Lord of the Rings. A great trek through the forest, though slippery with all the recent snow fall to the sixth and final line, the steepest and fastest in the world. Emari performed perfectly the Titantic to upside down iron cross to cannon ball up to speeds of 50mph. This one freaked me out a little but I managed to get my wobbly legs to walk right off the last step right into the abyss to an upside down iron cross. This was a really enjoyable tour and great way to see and experience such amazing beauty, in the mountains, the lake, the forest....the pure fresh air...like Emari, this place is amazing.
After the tour we decided to walk into town and splurge for dinner.....imagine that, perhaps the two cheapest and frugal tourist in NZ. We settled on a Korean restaurant. I had never actually eaten Korean food and although I had no idea what I was eating at least half the time it was a great meal, food was awesome. Topped off with a mocachino and Emari got a white mochachino and we walked back to the camper van. We played a few games of backgammon I got my ass kicked, pushed the "undo" button at one point which negated one of Emari's rolls and was accused of cheating. Actually it was cheating. The way she plays you would think we were playing chest for life or death...ten minute decisions before making a move. If I am not mistaken she has won four games to my two. Needless to say I need to find a game that increases my odds at winning as I am growing tired of losing!
Tomorrow we get picked up at 6:45am for our all day tour to Milford Sound. From what I gather, it is almost destined to be breath taking and amazing. Still entertaining my worst impatient decision of the trip to drive away from 5' of powder, but starting to get over it with days like today.
Friday, August 19, 2011
Mount Dobson: "Suitable for both buses and motorhomes"
...bullshit!
August 19th
After licking our wounds from yesterday's access road defeat, we decided the smart choice would be to try the country's ski field that claimed easy access. We pulled up to the access road entrance around 8, and AJ was ready to cry.
"I'm done with this!" he barked.
A large sign indicated that 2 WD vehicles would requite chains. Though we had a fresh pair from our side trip to Christchurch yesterday, AJ barked, "I'm over it."
We questioned a young guy about the road, asking how it compared to Mt Hutt's access road, and he said it wasn't so bad, though he hadn't been here in a bit. Before AJ could drive us away from the mountain and into a ditch (in a fit of rage), I suggested repeatedly that we get changed and hitch a ride up the 15 km access road. I rationalized, 5k equals 3.2 miles, times three, that's under ten miles, and hell, someone will stop for us.
Fortunately for us and for you, fair reader, we did not spend the whole morning walking the steep, windy, slick, narrow, snow packed pass. The third vehicle eased to a halt and the driver moved a car seat and some extra skis to make room for us. Andy drove us up the access road, which may have provided a third opportunity for our camper van to bust a set of chains. Andy used to work for aspiring guides, the company we're doing our glacier tour with. He instructs guides in training now and was actually working at the mountain today.
Mt Dobson was no frills. The ticket window and cafeteria were small shacks. Nothing was heated. In fact, there was a sign in the women's room to close the toilet lid so the "services would not freeze."
We bought our tickets, and since the one lift wasn't yet open, we got on line for the t bar. That's right, Emari versus the T bar, south island rematch. I shoved that t bar between my legs and threatened to choke it out with my thighs if it didn't behave. I also religiously followed the advice Ste'en gave me. "Be the puck." So zen. I kept all of my weight forward and barely put my back foot down. And dammit, I made it all the way to the top. Fuck yeah. T bar, until we meet again...
AJ was not having as thrilling a time. Despite 15-18 inches of fresh snow and not knowing the mountain, AJ followed a skier off piste and hit rocks and took a core shot up near his board's nose. The following two runs his board sustained more injuries: scrapes, core shots, and rail damage.
"I'm so done with this," he barked. So much for his new split board. I felt bad that he injured his board and that he couldn't get shake the bad vibe this brought. But I was having fun. The trails were nicely groomed, there was fresh snow to slash on the edges (if you avoided rocks), the snow was fast, the sun warmed my face, and it was a gorgeous day at a new mountain in NZ. And I rocked that f'n t bar.
After AJ found a good bit of powder along the side of a trail, he was ready to venture off piste again and check out some majorly untouched snow along a bowl and chute. Whoo-hoo!!
My board just floated. Whoosh. It was amazing. Then came the hike out. Steep and deep. I wish the men who preceded me in this climb out had taken smaller, more lady-like steps up the mountain. I was falling over myself trying to stay in their tracks. But it was worth it. We took two more of the same bowl/chute runs and then entered from higher up. It was incredible. The snow was so smooth. I ripped across like a hot knife over an iced cake.
We hiked out out, patting despite all of our P90x training and managed to hitch a ride back down the mountain with Andy.
After those powder runs and hike outs, AJ was happy, but he conceded the worst decision he'd made the whole trip (of course there's room to trump this) was leaving Springfield, not waiting for the road to open to Temple Basin, leaving behind over five feet of fresh snow. He is still smoldering over this decision and ready to shell out big bucks to go heliboarding early next week, if the snow's still pristine and the weather's right.
We camped up by Jubilee Park on the outskirts of Queenstown. Tomorrow we embark on our 6 line zip line tour (where in despair AJ is going to zip line without the harness).
Can't wait for more.
August 19th
After licking our wounds from yesterday's access road defeat, we decided the smart choice would be to try the country's ski field that claimed easy access. We pulled up to the access road entrance around 8, and AJ was ready to cry.
"I'm done with this!" he barked.
A large sign indicated that 2 WD vehicles would requite chains. Though we had a fresh pair from our side trip to Christchurch yesterday, AJ barked, "I'm over it."
We questioned a young guy about the road, asking how it compared to Mt Hutt's access road, and he said it wasn't so bad, though he hadn't been here in a bit. Before AJ could drive us away from the mountain and into a ditch (in a fit of rage), I suggested repeatedly that we get changed and hitch a ride up the 15 km access road. I rationalized, 5k equals 3.2 miles, times three, that's under ten miles, and hell, someone will stop for us.
Fortunately for us and for you, fair reader, we did not spend the whole morning walking the steep, windy, slick, narrow, snow packed pass. The third vehicle eased to a halt and the driver moved a car seat and some extra skis to make room for us. Andy drove us up the access road, which may have provided a third opportunity for our camper van to bust a set of chains. Andy used to work for aspiring guides, the company we're doing our glacier tour with. He instructs guides in training now and was actually working at the mountain today.
Mt Dobson was no frills. The ticket window and cafeteria were small shacks. Nothing was heated. In fact, there was a sign in the women's room to close the toilet lid so the "services would not freeze."
We bought our tickets, and since the one lift wasn't yet open, we got on line for the t bar. That's right, Emari versus the T bar, south island rematch. I shoved that t bar between my legs and threatened to choke it out with my thighs if it didn't behave. I also religiously followed the advice Ste'en gave me. "Be the puck." So zen. I kept all of my weight forward and barely put my back foot down. And dammit, I made it all the way to the top. Fuck yeah. T bar, until we meet again...
AJ was not having as thrilling a time. Despite 15-18 inches of fresh snow and not knowing the mountain, AJ followed a skier off piste and hit rocks and took a core shot up near his board's nose. The following two runs his board sustained more injuries: scrapes, core shots, and rail damage.
"I'm so done with this," he barked. So much for his new split board. I felt bad that he injured his board and that he couldn't get shake the bad vibe this brought. But I was having fun. The trails were nicely groomed, there was fresh snow to slash on the edges (if you avoided rocks), the snow was fast, the sun warmed my face, and it was a gorgeous day at a new mountain in NZ. And I rocked that f'n t bar.
After AJ found a good bit of powder along the side of a trail, he was ready to venture off piste again and check out some majorly untouched snow along a bowl and chute. Whoo-hoo!!
My board just floated. Whoosh. It was amazing. Then came the hike out. Steep and deep. I wish the men who preceded me in this climb out had taken smaller, more lady-like steps up the mountain. I was falling over myself trying to stay in their tracks. But it was worth it. We took two more of the same bowl/chute runs and then entered from higher up. It was incredible. The snow was so smooth. I ripped across like a hot knife over an iced cake.
We hiked out out, patting despite all of our P90x training and managed to hitch a ride back down the mountain with Andy.
After those powder runs and hike outs, AJ was happy, but he conceded the worst decision he'd made the whole trip (of course there's room to trump this) was leaving Springfield, not waiting for the road to open to Temple Basin, leaving behind over five feet of fresh snow. He is still smoldering over this decision and ready to shell out big bucks to go heliboarding early next week, if the snow's still pristine and the weather's right.
We camped up by Jubilee Park on the outskirts of Queenstown. Tomorrow we embark on our 6 line zip line tour (where in despair AJ is going to zip line without the harness).
Can't wait for more.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
"The Shining, Minus Redrum"
This entry is for the past 48 hours, Wednesday August 17 and Thursday August 18 presumably. As previously written we finally got the green light to leave Kaikoura on Tuesday August 16, with one tricky snow-covered pass we made it as far as Springfield. the Springfield Inn actually had a mural of the Simpsons on the front window, across the street was a big purple donut with a bite taken out of it in the middle of the field.
Wednesday morning Emari and I had found out early from the gas attendant that both Porters and Arthur's Pass would remain closed all day. Emari confirmed this by searching a few different sites. All of the ski resorts in the area were closed....we were not going anywhere. We camped out in a cafe in the morning hours and eventually a man with his twin daughter and son, as well as his sister joined us at our table. A good conversation about the mountains, skiing and riding. A good distraction was his twin kids who were obsessed with crawling under the table to untie and ultimately tie our shoes together, both claiming this was done by invisible aliens. This entire mountain ridge has been getting hammered with snow since Sunday/Monday and we were just out of reach. All of our electrons were running low on battery life. Emari and I agreed we'd only run the heat a couple hours in the morning around breakfast and a few hours at night, dinner time up until approximately 8pm, then it was bundle the fuck up time!!!
During the afternoon we played backgammon and read. Hard to believe I have read two full books, almost my quota for the year. I think Emari folded the last page of her thousandth read book for the year. The highlight of this day however, was checking out the next cafe which had the most amazing food, absolutely the best local Kiwi grub we have eaten. A sweet woman, I'm guessing in her late 50's, who seemed very proud that she offered "fresh home cooked meals." With all the stranded people in town she disclosed she had stoked the shelves three times. I almost want to pass through there again just to eat.
Thursday morning was cold, thick breath in the air when we woke. I turned on the gas to get the coffee going, put out bowls with cereal and banana, Emari was still bundled under, "double comforter" toped with a sleeping bag. I slept horribly awaking at 2 am to the sound of rain. It would rain off and on through out the night. In my mind it meant one thing, more snow in the mountains, which I was thinking would result in the passes remaining closed.
We ate and then cleaned up. The iPad had 1% battery life so we both climbed into the cab to start the engine and plug in the iPad. Emari's cyber search confirmed Porters and Arthur's Pass closed, not to be updated until after noon. Every mountain up Arthur's Pass was also closed, to dig out and do avalanche potrol, with the exception of Temple Basin, but unless you had been stranded there, you were not getting there. What to do? I was having a "Shining" moment...mountain reports confirmed that in the past three days they received 130cm-150cm....Fucking five feet of snow, what I have been dreaming about yet unable to get to, just out of reach. Nothing against a cold and damp camper van, but I was itching to be on the move, restless with a capital "R". The entire town of Springfield consist of two cafe's, an Inn and a gas station/convenience store which by the way either sells or rents DVD's...the sign also proudly reported even of the Adult nature but was "illegal to display!" we had seen Spingfield and it delivered our best meal, but come tomorrow it it was going to be a full week with not being on any board.
Emari and I discussed our options and it seemed reasonable that we head for Mt. Hutt, roads were open and although the mountain was not completely open a lift was turning and we were an hour out. We both agreed a day of riding anywhere is better than not! We we off.
We arrived in the lower car lot where all vehicles needed to comply with snow chains to proceed up the pass. I was a anxious having never put snow chains on a vehicle or driven in them. I encouraged Emari to video because this could lead to a high probability "freak-out" which my father-in-law insisted he wanted at least one caught on tape....she refused. Rumor has it back in the day he was known for a few, this remains a current phenomenon for me. Despite for getting muddy and wet which we were told and warned this is the norm, besides a number of choice obscenities Emari and I got the chains installed and we were ready to roll, both excited that we would be getting a full day of riding in......little did we know what was in store for us.
We pulled out of the gate and their was a man and a lady with gear looking to hitch a ride up the pass. Knowing that I could very well be in the same predicament I rolled down the window and offered a ride with the following clause, "no guarantee I'll get you there." The man hoped in but the woman refused, we exchanged names but I was so anxious nothing registered. I bet we were not 1/16 up the pass, which at this point was mostly mud and gravel, struggling in second gear. I thought we were just kicking up rocks, but the noise was loud. Reluctantly I came to a stop, it was steep, no way to turn around and like a bad nightmare before you both chains were busted, totally destroyed. Upon further inspection I really started to freak, exclaiming, "we are so fucked, the chains are wrapped up in the axel. Our guest was out of the car and into another car heading up the pass in two minutes flat but stated he'd send someone down. While waiting I was able to free both axels from the chains. It was so scary under that rig, steep incline and I kept thinking, "this rig is going to roll right over me and kill me." Great for more self induced anxiety, like scaring yourself in the dark!
We were greeted buy a young guy who worked the mountain, asking how we were doing, my response, "we have been better." He inspected the situation and stated that he would go down the chain fitting station grab a hand and some chains adding, "we'll be fine after that." he returned ten minutes later with a co-worker and they had chains on our camper van in no time. We asked if we did anything wrong and his response was simply, "these camper vans are really not meant to be up here." he stated that they'd follow us up a bit and within a quarter mile, we snapped another link that was banging under the driver's side wheel well. I pulled over,the mountain crew strapped the loose link. At this point it was steep and snow and ice covered, I asked, "are we going to make it ip there?" the one guy responded this was one of the steepest sections and once past this it should be no problem.
"One of the last steep sections".........bullshit, this was beyond crazy in our nearly 7 meter camper van, struggling like sysiphus pushing the fucking rock forever up the mountain. The mountain crew followed a short while longer and we we on our own. We kept climbing, at this point little or no visibility, maybe 50yds, periods of snow, road plowed but steep and still snow covered.
It wasn't long before Emari and I heard more horrendous noise from the driver's side but their were limited safe spots to stop and look. Upon first inspection everything seemed fine. We pulled away sluggishly in first gear lucky to make second, the noise was even worse, I just started yelling, "Fuck....Fuck....Fuck." I pulled over again and at first glance it appeared as if a tie rod had come off at which point I exclaimed further, "we are so fucked, kiss that $5000.00 insurance bond away." Took hardly a half yogic breath and Emari and I inspected further. We realized when the chain broke, it broke off the rod that holds the fender up and stabilizes it. With duct tape and string I was able to tape and tie the rod up under the bumper. I had no idea where the top was, I was shot out and decided where we we at, we could turn around and head back down. Emari was the guide and I pulled a 3 point k-turn and we were on our way back down, but their was still a horrendous noise. We finally realized a piece of the chain on the inside was lose, I tied this up with string as well.
By the time we reached the chain installation station even our breaks smelled cooked despite the second gear descent. Emari and I were a wet and muddy mess, both quite shell-shocked and rattled. We ate got out of some of our gear, at room temperature pies and decided it was best to head to Christchurch to the camper van place to get a new set of chains. Emari e-mailed them and called from the road.
From Christchurch we headed to Fairlie, not far from Mt Dobson, where we plan to ride tomorrow. Supposedly they have short access road, camper van and bus friendly. I have no regrets about the camper van but for the snowboard leg of our trip and adventure I realize we are at a disadvantage, these things are literally too big and too heavy to make it up these steep and snow covered access roads. We are now going to plan B scouting out Mountains that have shuttle services up the mountain. I'm sad that I did not get to ride and experience Temple Basin. Emari and I were actually quite lucky that these events happened on a larger mountains access road. And though I had thoughts of blowing off the road closings I am happy I did not.....we are not in my all wheel drive Element on familiar roads, these roads are steep and deep with little room for error and if you were to go off the road the chances for living seem small.
The past 6 days of disappointments I know in time will really be the highlight of our trip. I'm not sure how Emari puts up with me, but we seem to be a really solid team and despite encouraging here to throw the iPad from the window when she was having an issue with it, she refused stating something like, "when I act violently like that, I feel worse....." I just smiled, she was and is right.
Camped up in Fairlie for the night. We'd be run off, fined or arrested back in the States the places we have been camped up!
AJ
Wednesday morning Emari and I had found out early from the gas attendant that both Porters and Arthur's Pass would remain closed all day. Emari confirmed this by searching a few different sites. All of the ski resorts in the area were closed....we were not going anywhere. We camped out in a cafe in the morning hours and eventually a man with his twin daughter and son, as well as his sister joined us at our table. A good conversation about the mountains, skiing and riding. A good distraction was his twin kids who were obsessed with crawling under the table to untie and ultimately tie our shoes together, both claiming this was done by invisible aliens. This entire mountain ridge has been getting hammered with snow since Sunday/Monday and we were just out of reach. All of our electrons were running low on battery life. Emari and I agreed we'd only run the heat a couple hours in the morning around breakfast and a few hours at night, dinner time up until approximately 8pm, then it was bundle the fuck up time!!!
During the afternoon we played backgammon and read. Hard to believe I have read two full books, almost my quota for the year. I think Emari folded the last page of her thousandth read book for the year. The highlight of this day however, was checking out the next cafe which had the most amazing food, absolutely the best local Kiwi grub we have eaten. A sweet woman, I'm guessing in her late 50's, who seemed very proud that she offered "fresh home cooked meals." With all the stranded people in town she disclosed she had stoked the shelves three times. I almost want to pass through there again just to eat.
Thursday morning was cold, thick breath in the air when we woke. I turned on the gas to get the coffee going, put out bowls with cereal and banana, Emari was still bundled under, "double comforter" toped with a sleeping bag. I slept horribly awaking at 2 am to the sound of rain. It would rain off and on through out the night. In my mind it meant one thing, more snow in the mountains, which I was thinking would result in the passes remaining closed.
We ate and then cleaned up. The iPad had 1% battery life so we both climbed into the cab to start the engine and plug in the iPad. Emari's cyber search confirmed Porters and Arthur's Pass closed, not to be updated until after noon. Every mountain up Arthur's Pass was also closed, to dig out and do avalanche potrol, with the exception of Temple Basin, but unless you had been stranded there, you were not getting there. What to do? I was having a "Shining" moment...mountain reports confirmed that in the past three days they received 130cm-150cm....Fucking five feet of snow, what I have been dreaming about yet unable to get to, just out of reach. Nothing against a cold and damp camper van, but I was itching to be on the move, restless with a capital "R". The entire town of Springfield consist of two cafe's, an Inn and a gas station/convenience store which by the way either sells or rents DVD's...the sign also proudly reported even of the Adult nature but was "illegal to display!" we had seen Spingfield and it delivered our best meal, but come tomorrow it it was going to be a full week with not being on any board.
Emari and I discussed our options and it seemed reasonable that we head for Mt. Hutt, roads were open and although the mountain was not completely open a lift was turning and we were an hour out. We both agreed a day of riding anywhere is better than not! We we off.
We arrived in the lower car lot where all vehicles needed to comply with snow chains to proceed up the pass. I was a anxious having never put snow chains on a vehicle or driven in them. I encouraged Emari to video because this could lead to a high probability "freak-out" which my father-in-law insisted he wanted at least one caught on tape....she refused. Rumor has it back in the day he was known for a few, this remains a current phenomenon for me. Despite for getting muddy and wet which we were told and warned this is the norm, besides a number of choice obscenities Emari and I got the chains installed and we were ready to roll, both excited that we would be getting a full day of riding in......little did we know what was in store for us.
We pulled out of the gate and their was a man and a lady with gear looking to hitch a ride up the pass. Knowing that I could very well be in the same predicament I rolled down the window and offered a ride with the following clause, "no guarantee I'll get you there." The man hoped in but the woman refused, we exchanged names but I was so anxious nothing registered. I bet we were not 1/16 up the pass, which at this point was mostly mud and gravel, struggling in second gear. I thought we were just kicking up rocks, but the noise was loud. Reluctantly I came to a stop, it was steep, no way to turn around and like a bad nightmare before you both chains were busted, totally destroyed. Upon further inspection I really started to freak, exclaiming, "we are so fucked, the chains are wrapped up in the axel. Our guest was out of the car and into another car heading up the pass in two minutes flat but stated he'd send someone down. While waiting I was able to free both axels from the chains. It was so scary under that rig, steep incline and I kept thinking, "this rig is going to roll right over me and kill me." Great for more self induced anxiety, like scaring yourself in the dark!
We were greeted buy a young guy who worked the mountain, asking how we were doing, my response, "we have been better." He inspected the situation and stated that he would go down the chain fitting station grab a hand and some chains adding, "we'll be fine after that." he returned ten minutes later with a co-worker and they had chains on our camper van in no time. We asked if we did anything wrong and his response was simply, "these camper vans are really not meant to be up here." he stated that they'd follow us up a bit and within a quarter mile, we snapped another link that was banging under the driver's side wheel well. I pulled over,the mountain crew strapped the loose link. At this point it was steep and snow and ice covered, I asked, "are we going to make it ip there?" the one guy responded this was one of the steepest sections and once past this it should be no problem.
"One of the last steep sections".........bullshit, this was beyond crazy in our nearly 7 meter camper van, struggling like sysiphus pushing the fucking rock forever up the mountain. The mountain crew followed a short while longer and we we on our own. We kept climbing, at this point little or no visibility, maybe 50yds, periods of snow, road plowed but steep and still snow covered.
It wasn't long before Emari and I heard more horrendous noise from the driver's side but their were limited safe spots to stop and look. Upon first inspection everything seemed fine. We pulled away sluggishly in first gear lucky to make second, the noise was even worse, I just started yelling, "Fuck....Fuck....Fuck." I pulled over again and at first glance it appeared as if a tie rod had come off at which point I exclaimed further, "we are so fucked, kiss that $5000.00 insurance bond away." Took hardly a half yogic breath and Emari and I inspected further. We realized when the chain broke, it broke off the rod that holds the fender up and stabilizes it. With duct tape and string I was able to tape and tie the rod up under the bumper. I had no idea where the top was, I was shot out and decided where we we at, we could turn around and head back down. Emari was the guide and I pulled a 3 point k-turn and we were on our way back down, but their was still a horrendous noise. We finally realized a piece of the chain on the inside was lose, I tied this up with string as well.
By the time we reached the chain installation station even our breaks smelled cooked despite the second gear descent. Emari and I were a wet and muddy mess, both quite shell-shocked and rattled. We ate got out of some of our gear, at room temperature pies and decided it was best to head to Christchurch to the camper van place to get a new set of chains. Emari e-mailed them and called from the road.
From Christchurch we headed to Fairlie, not far from Mt Dobson, where we plan to ride tomorrow. Supposedly they have short access road, camper van and bus friendly. I have no regrets about the camper van but for the snowboard leg of our trip and adventure I realize we are at a disadvantage, these things are literally too big and too heavy to make it up these steep and snow covered access roads. We are now going to plan B scouting out Mountains that have shuttle services up the mountain. I'm sad that I did not get to ride and experience Temple Basin. Emari and I were actually quite lucky that these events happened on a larger mountains access road. And though I had thoughts of blowing off the road closings I am happy I did not.....we are not in my all wheel drive Element on familiar roads, these roads are steep and deep with little room for error and if you were to go off the road the chances for living seem small.
The past 6 days of disappointments I know in time will really be the highlight of our trip. I'm not sure how Emari puts up with me, but we seem to be a really solid team and despite encouraging here to throw the iPad from the window when she was having an issue with it, she refused stating something like, "when I act violently like that, I feel worse....." I just smiled, she was and is right.
Camped up in Fairlie for the night. We'd be run off, fined or arrested back in the States the places we have been camped up!
AJ
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Skunked in Kiakoura, Stranded in Springfield
Tuesday, August 16th
No nightmares for me last night. Can't say the same for AJ who woke bolt upright, probably steering us away from some cliff in his dreams. AJ woke first and packed up the camper, while I hunkered down in the double comforter, plus sleeping bag lair.
AJ drove to Mangamaunu and stepped outside to check the surf. He was gone too long for it to be right. When he returned, he said, "There needs to be a little more light on it."
And I asked if he wanted his headlamp. He crawled back into bed to wait for sunrise. At sunrise, he went back out. It was big and disorganized. Winds ripping and not so inviting. I made mushroom and cheese omelets, and AJ made coffee. We were giving the surf a little time to get itself in order. Besides the road south was still closed, and an update wasn't due until 9am. Manga's did not get organized and the winds didn't suddenly cooperate either. We drove to Meatworks to check the surf there; it was even bigger and disorganized.
So back into town...to wait for news of the roads and to sample another cafe. Two mochas and a shared bagel later and we were off to explore Kiakoura's south peninsula and bay. We saw heaps of seals!!! They are freaking adorable. All wiggly and bounce. We had made a seal friend at Manga's. He/she may have been sick, or if a she, possibly pregnant. Let's call him/her Sam. Sam was sprawled out on the beach the first afternoon we checked the surf. AJ almost walked right into him/her, and Sam barely picked his/her head up. I was wishing I had some seal rescue knowledge at that moment. The next day, we thought Sam was gone, but we found him/her camped out under a tree, and we saw a smaller seal coming in from the ocean to be with him/her. I accidentally scared the little seal because I was so excited to see it swim onto shore and jump onto a piece of driftwood. Apparently, Sam was gone today. Perhaps feeling better or having birthed some seal pups. I don't want to consider any of the less cheery versions.
But back to Kaikoura...we saw hundreds of seals around the southern peninsula. There were a few at Keen Point and horde of them relaxing on rocks as we took the footpath to Whale Bay. There were also several signs reminding you to keep ten meters from the seals. 10 meter! I was way closer to Sam at Manga's each time we saw each other.
A light drizzle was starting to fall so we hurried back to the camper and drove around the other side of the peninsula, and then we decided to see where the road actually closed. The national weather and transportation websites said Rt 1 was closed, but when we approached, a man with an official looking fluorescent orange vest told us the road was open. Woot!
As we headed south, snow began to litter to pastures, and we past sheep with a dusting of snow on their backs. Soon we were chugging up our first mountain pass; it was a bit slick, but AJ kept the camper in 3rd gear primarily. One mountain pass down.
We stopped in Cheviot for gas, and the clerk assured us we were one of the first few. The road had been closed for almost days. He didn't think Arthur's Pass, the road to the snow fields, was open, but we planned to go to Christchurch first to see about our GoPro.
An hour later we were cruising Christchurch, even passed a store that claimed to be "The World's Largest Gun Store." Really? Christchurch, NZ?
Unfortunately, Southern Approach was not open and we weren't able to have our GoPro fixed or replaced. I should mention that the last help email I received was totally shitty, and customer service is going to hear about my dissatisfaction with their product and their online support staff when I return to the states. On their contrary, their phone staff is quite helpful and pleasant.
It was difficult to leave Christchurch, as many roads were blocked off or detoured as a result of the quakes. And many of the motels and hotels displayed no vacancy signs, which indicated displaced folks may be living there now.
We finally found our way to 73 and began the snowy trek toward Arthur's Pass. We knew the road would be closed around Springfield and decided to get as far as we could. And we have.
We're parked on the side of the road at the western edge of Springfield, a few meters from the last gas station, pub, and convenience stores for hundreds of kilometers. It's the last rest stop of sorts before one arrives at the ski clubs. But we're not going anywhere tonight, and we may not be going anywhere tomorrow. The road is officially closed here, and even AJ conceded that it's not safe to push further in our camper van. If we were in the Element, well, that's another story.
We emptied our grey and black water and refilled the fresh water tank before we left Kaikoura. And we've stocked up on propane for our heater. So we're in an ideal condition to be stranded here, though Kiakoura was a much better town to hang out it. It even had a secondhand book store!
But there's a pub, which probably serves fish and chips and pies, AJ's NZ grub favs, and I'm sure the convenience store sells chocolate, the only necessity we're running low on (only one bar left).
Off to read with our headlamps.
No nightmares for me last night. Can't say the same for AJ who woke bolt upright, probably steering us away from some cliff in his dreams. AJ woke first and packed up the camper, while I hunkered down in the double comforter, plus sleeping bag lair.
AJ drove to Mangamaunu and stepped outside to check the surf. He was gone too long for it to be right. When he returned, he said, "There needs to be a little more light on it."
And I asked if he wanted his headlamp. He crawled back into bed to wait for sunrise. At sunrise, he went back out. It was big and disorganized. Winds ripping and not so inviting. I made mushroom and cheese omelets, and AJ made coffee. We were giving the surf a little time to get itself in order. Besides the road south was still closed, and an update wasn't due until 9am. Manga's did not get organized and the winds didn't suddenly cooperate either. We drove to Meatworks to check the surf there; it was even bigger and disorganized.
So back into town...to wait for news of the roads and to sample another cafe. Two mochas and a shared bagel later and we were off to explore Kiakoura's south peninsula and bay. We saw heaps of seals!!! They are freaking adorable. All wiggly and bounce. We had made a seal friend at Manga's. He/she may have been sick, or if a she, possibly pregnant. Let's call him/her Sam. Sam was sprawled out on the beach the first afternoon we checked the surf. AJ almost walked right into him/her, and Sam barely picked his/her head up. I was wishing I had some seal rescue knowledge at that moment. The next day, we thought Sam was gone, but we found him/her camped out under a tree, and we saw a smaller seal coming in from the ocean to be with him/her. I accidentally scared the little seal because I was so excited to see it swim onto shore and jump onto a piece of driftwood. Apparently, Sam was gone today. Perhaps feeling better or having birthed some seal pups. I don't want to consider any of the less cheery versions.
But back to Kaikoura...we saw hundreds of seals around the southern peninsula. There were a few at Keen Point and horde of them relaxing on rocks as we took the footpath to Whale Bay. There were also several signs reminding you to keep ten meters from the seals. 10 meter! I was way closer to Sam at Manga's each time we saw each other.
A light drizzle was starting to fall so we hurried back to the camper and drove around the other side of the peninsula, and then we decided to see where the road actually closed. The national weather and transportation websites said Rt 1 was closed, but when we approached, a man with an official looking fluorescent orange vest told us the road was open. Woot!
As we headed south, snow began to litter to pastures, and we past sheep with a dusting of snow on their backs. Soon we were chugging up our first mountain pass; it was a bit slick, but AJ kept the camper in 3rd gear primarily. One mountain pass down.
We stopped in Cheviot for gas, and the clerk assured us we were one of the first few. The road had been closed for almost days. He didn't think Arthur's Pass, the road to the snow fields, was open, but we planned to go to Christchurch first to see about our GoPro.
An hour later we were cruising Christchurch, even passed a store that claimed to be "The World's Largest Gun Store." Really? Christchurch, NZ?
Unfortunately, Southern Approach was not open and we weren't able to have our GoPro fixed or replaced. I should mention that the last help email I received was totally shitty, and customer service is going to hear about my dissatisfaction with their product and their online support staff when I return to the states. On their contrary, their phone staff is quite helpful and pleasant.
It was difficult to leave Christchurch, as many roads were blocked off or detoured as a result of the quakes. And many of the motels and hotels displayed no vacancy signs, which indicated displaced folks may be living there now.
We finally found our way to 73 and began the snowy trek toward Arthur's Pass. We knew the road would be closed around Springfield and decided to get as far as we could. And we have.
We're parked on the side of the road at the western edge of Springfield, a few meters from the last gas station, pub, and convenience stores for hundreds of kilometers. It's the last rest stop of sorts before one arrives at the ski clubs. But we're not going anywhere tonight, and we may not be going anywhere tomorrow. The road is officially closed here, and even AJ conceded that it's not safe to push further in our camper van. If we were in the Element, well, that's another story.
We emptied our grey and black water and refilled the fresh water tank before we left Kaikoura. And we've stocked up on propane for our heater. So we're in an ideal condition to be stranded here, though Kiakoura was a much better town to hang out it. It even had a secondhand book store!
But there's a pub, which probably serves fish and chips and pies, AJ's NZ grub favs, and I'm sure the convenience store sells chocolate, the only necessity we're running low on (only one bar left).
Off to read with our headlamps.
Monday, August 15, 2011
Stranded in Kiakoura
On Monday, August 15th, Emari and I camped up at a spot called Meatworks, really exposed to the wind, rainy and cold which eventually turned to sleet. A her request we parked on slightly higher ground as we were not sure where the high tide line would be. I woke many times which has not been uncommon, frequent driving nightmares have woken me, perhaps these roads have contributed to a mild form of PTSD? It was around 6:00am when I decided to get out of bed. it was cold, I could see my breath and I peeled back the side curtains of the camper van to see a blanket of snow and Meatworks looking uninvitingly angry.
Damn it was cold and damp, so glad we had all our snowboard gear and we were layered up. I fired up the range to boil water for coffee, put out bowls for cereal, a banana, two spoons and two coffee mugs. Tried to fire up the heat but it seemed to only run for short intervals. We ate and headed just north to check Mangamaunuw which was sheltered from the wind, probably waist high, maybe some bigger sets, the tide was dropping and supposedly the swell was forecast to increase. I knew with only a 4/3, 3 mil gloves, 5 mil booties and a cap if I was going to sure today with 20-30mph winds blowing it was only going to be for one session until I was cold. It is an amazing set up and it was one of the spots I wanted to catch.
Emari and I decided to kill some time in Kaikoura, so we headed their, parked the car and bundled up for our stroll. We went into an I-info place to get some information on a Milford Sound and while their we found out the road to Christchurch was closed, we later found out most of the mountain passes and most of the ski resorts were closed as well. Weather reports seem to indicate blizzard conditions in the mountain areas and gale warnings along the coast through Tuesday.....we were not going anywhere. Lucky for us Kaikoura is a really cool town. The lady at I-info, whom I'm guessing is in her 40's told us she had not seen snow in this area since her early childhood. We booked a Milford Sound trip for this Sunday, in addition Emari booked us on the sickest zip-line trip, six lines, fastest speeds could reach 50mph and we take a gondola ride up to where the tour starts.......didn't she know I was afraid of heights, for Christ sake you know we're married and you'd think she knows these things? Zip-line tour this Saturday out of Queenstown. We killed some time at a cafe and ended up chatting with an older couple from England who were looking at missing their flight out of Christchurch scheduled for tomorrow unless the weather cleared.
The incoming tide did not seem to make a difference in the surf, still waist to maybe chest high but really soft and crumbly, winds ripping side-offshore, periods of rain, sleet and snow. We scouted out some places to camp up, it was going to be another cold blistery night. We settled for this spot just north of Mangamauna on highway 1 with a hill-side blocking the ripping SW wind, still right across the street from the ocean with sporadic traffic and once in a while the train has gone by. We cuddled up in bed, many layers with hats on heads and we read. Fuck it was cold and you could see your own breath, this has become our indicator that it is cold. We could not keep the heat going for more than a few minutes, both too cheap to cough up $30NZ for a powered up camper van site.
Bundled up we both started to prepare dinner when Emari realized that the flame on the range has not been as strong and suggested the propane tank be changed. She is one smart cookie. I swapped out the tank, this rig carries two, so we should always have a full one and wouldn't you know range fired up on high and with a fresh propane tank we now had heat blowing in the camper van. We had a wonderful meal, it had warmed up, no longer could you see your breath, but two hours later the heat kicked off and it was back to trouble shooting. The camper van houses at least two possibly three batteries and I realized the indicator was reading low. We now had an additional problem, full propane tank but not enough battery to keep the heat flowing. I started up the truck, lights got bright and the heat fired up. Then I got to thinking about the warning....."turn propane tank off while engine is running"......Fuck!!!
I went out in the dark, it was very scary and turned off the propane. We decided to run the engine for a while to get the batteries recharged. Pretty certain the extreme cold weather drains these batteries quicker. Plan is to kill the engine, turn on the propane and heat but it is unlikely that this will get us through the night. Sleeping attire...first layer, smart wool socks, sweater type layer, hats and even possibly light gloves. We will then pile under a sheet with a double comforter and possibly a sleeping bag...we will spoon provided Emari is on the outside, eliminating the possibility of pressing her cold nose anywhere near me.
With a little luck I'll get to surf the high tide in the morning, fingers crossed the road to Christchurch will be open and possibly Arthur's Pass so we can get up to Temple Basin with hopes of three days of riding and looking good for powder. We are then off to Queenstown for our Zip-line tour and then Milford Sound. I am really disappointed our fucking Go Pro is not working! We will then get three days of riding at Cardrona, next Thursday our 5 day Summit to Sea begins, with all the recent snow, it could be unreal, either way it will be unreal. Thinking of all my riding friends from VT.....Tim, Kyle, Jay, Justin and Gin, Dave and Jen......Ginz007 and baby carrots wish you were all here.
Bundle the fuck up baby, it's COLD!!!
AJ
Damn it was cold and damp, so glad we had all our snowboard gear and we were layered up. I fired up the range to boil water for coffee, put out bowls for cereal, a banana, two spoons and two coffee mugs. Tried to fire up the heat but it seemed to only run for short intervals. We ate and headed just north to check Mangamaunuw which was sheltered from the wind, probably waist high, maybe some bigger sets, the tide was dropping and supposedly the swell was forecast to increase. I knew with only a 4/3, 3 mil gloves, 5 mil booties and a cap if I was going to sure today with 20-30mph winds blowing it was only going to be for one session until I was cold. It is an amazing set up and it was one of the spots I wanted to catch.
Emari and I decided to kill some time in Kaikoura, so we headed their, parked the car and bundled up for our stroll. We went into an I-info place to get some information on a Milford Sound and while their we found out the road to Christchurch was closed, we later found out most of the mountain passes and most of the ski resorts were closed as well. Weather reports seem to indicate blizzard conditions in the mountain areas and gale warnings along the coast through Tuesday.....we were not going anywhere. Lucky for us Kaikoura is a really cool town. The lady at I-info, whom I'm guessing is in her 40's told us she had not seen snow in this area since her early childhood. We booked a Milford Sound trip for this Sunday, in addition Emari booked us on the sickest zip-line trip, six lines, fastest speeds could reach 50mph and we take a gondola ride up to where the tour starts.......didn't she know I was afraid of heights, for Christ sake you know we're married and you'd think she knows these things? Zip-line tour this Saturday out of Queenstown. We killed some time at a cafe and ended up chatting with an older couple from England who were looking at missing their flight out of Christchurch scheduled for tomorrow unless the weather cleared.
The incoming tide did not seem to make a difference in the surf, still waist to maybe chest high but really soft and crumbly, winds ripping side-offshore, periods of rain, sleet and snow. We scouted out some places to camp up, it was going to be another cold blistery night. We settled for this spot just north of Mangamauna on highway 1 with a hill-side blocking the ripping SW wind, still right across the street from the ocean with sporadic traffic and once in a while the train has gone by. We cuddled up in bed, many layers with hats on heads and we read. Fuck it was cold and you could see your own breath, this has become our indicator that it is cold. We could not keep the heat going for more than a few minutes, both too cheap to cough up $30NZ for a powered up camper van site.
Bundled up we both started to prepare dinner when Emari realized that the flame on the range has not been as strong and suggested the propane tank be changed. She is one smart cookie. I swapped out the tank, this rig carries two, so we should always have a full one and wouldn't you know range fired up on high and with a fresh propane tank we now had heat blowing in the camper van. We had a wonderful meal, it had warmed up, no longer could you see your breath, but two hours later the heat kicked off and it was back to trouble shooting. The camper van houses at least two possibly three batteries and I realized the indicator was reading low. We now had an additional problem, full propane tank but not enough battery to keep the heat flowing. I started up the truck, lights got bright and the heat fired up. Then I got to thinking about the warning....."turn propane tank off while engine is running"......Fuck!!!
I went out in the dark, it was very scary and turned off the propane. We decided to run the engine for a while to get the batteries recharged. Pretty certain the extreme cold weather drains these batteries quicker. Plan is to kill the engine, turn on the propane and heat but it is unlikely that this will get us through the night. Sleeping attire...first layer, smart wool socks, sweater type layer, hats and even possibly light gloves. We will then pile under a sheet with a double comforter and possibly a sleeping bag...we will spoon provided Emari is on the outside, eliminating the possibility of pressing her cold nose anywhere near me.
With a little luck I'll get to surf the high tide in the morning, fingers crossed the road to Christchurch will be open and possibly Arthur's Pass so we can get up to Temple Basin with hopes of three days of riding and looking good for powder. We are then off to Queenstown for our Zip-line tour and then Milford Sound. I am really disappointed our fucking Go Pro is not working! We will then get three days of riding at Cardrona, next Thursday our 5 day Summit to Sea begins, with all the recent snow, it could be unreal, either way it will be unreal. Thinking of all my riding friends from VT.....Tim, Kyle, Jay, Justin and Gin, Dave and Jen......Ginz007 and baby carrots wish you were all here.
Bundle the fuck up baby, it's COLD!!!
AJ
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Into the Belly of the Beast but Stuck in Ste'en's Driveway
On Saturday August 13th we were expecting a lazy morning, high tide was not until 9:30am and the beach break at Raglan was looking to be chest high and bigger with off-shore winds. It was probably close to 10:00am when I decided to go for a surf and Emari was going to pass, already involved with Ste'en's computer and our iPad trying to trouble shoot why our fucking Go Pro was still not working, and despite her hours of effort it still does not work. So much for getting ex toted about bringing a Go Pro to New Zealand.....I'd like to toss it in the air and hit it with a baseball bat?
In the mean time I get ready to pull out of then upper part of Ste'en's driveway, parked on wet grass on a decline and trying to back out. To my surprise, the wheels just spun sending mud over a short wall and spraying Ste'en's van below. Ste'en emerged and we wedged two 1x6" pieces of wood but they did not work. Lucky I spotted some rubbish of concrete and stone and we loaded up a small trail behind both front tires. No problem, backed right out, but in the process realized the front tires were essentially bald which raised a real question and dilemma, Emari and I were heading to the South Island where they are expected to get hit with a major snowstorm. Bald tires, short bus, me driving on the wrong side of the road etc....things were not adding up for a successful trip. I followed Ste'en to check the waves and it looked fun as shit, but stated, " I can't surf, I need to take care of the tires." I pulled into the local BP garage and spoke to the mechanic who conformed, front tires needed to be replaced and front end aligned, he did not have the tires in stock and recommended a run to Hamilton.
I returned to the house and Emari called our man Danny at Adventure New Zealand and he stated that we had two options, pay to get the tires replaced and get reimbursed or take it to a Firestone Dealer that they had an account with. It was now 11am, most of the tires places in Hamilton either were not open or closed by 2pm. Emari called the one place that was open until 2pm and the obtained our replacements. Emari and I dropped everything and drove 45 minutes to Hamilton. The two mechanics that worked on the car were super friendly and basically stated, "we'll have you up in running in 3/4 of an hour and you can be on your way with your Holiday."
With the tires replaced and piece of mind, with Ste'en's input looking at weather and surf Emari and I were heading to the south island tonight for a 8:25 am ferry on August 14 in hopes of beating out the storm. We grocery shopped in Hamilton and returned to Ste'en and Tonya's, we both showered and shaved at least 4 days of grime away, it felt awesome. We all pitched in for an amazing meal of nachos, chicken fajita's with fresh guacamole and salsa.
Emari and I hit the road at 7:30pm for the 8 hour drive to Wellington to catch the ferry. The drive was hell and I was as shot out as they come. The mountain pass we hit on highway 4 at 1:00am took it's toll on me, washed out lanes, periods of rain and fog, I was seeing all sorts of road gremlins. I made it as far as one hour from the ferry and pulled off to sleep for 3-4 hours though they were restless hours and I was paranoid I'd over sleep despite setting two iPhones one on alarm and one on countdown. I eventually got on the road at 5am and we arrived at the ferry terminal at 6:04, we were second in line and boarding would begin at 6:45am.
The ferry was enormous, eight levels high....18 wheelers, camper vans, motorcycles, foot traffic, they filled it. I got a cup of coffee and Emari got a Chai tea, we found two reclining seats and we tried to sleep. After we awoke we ate some food and we were the first vehicle off the ferry heading down highway 1 south, to Mangamaunu, a classic right point North of Kaikoura. Well if a storm was brewing their was no sign of it as we headed down the coast. As we already knew we are one day early for this swell which is expected to hit tomorrow but it will not be without stiff winds, but the point should shelter some on the wind. It was only about thigh high but what an awesome set up, if I catch this I will be stoked.
Emari and I drove into Kaikoura and went for a walk through town, very cold and damp and the weather had turned windy with rain and even hail, as I write this it sounds like sleet on the roof of our camper van. The mountains are expecting blizzard conditions the next two days, roads will most likely be closed and the few sites we checked out on line were already closed to camper vans. We are camped up right along the beach at a spot called Meatworks, ledgeing picks breaking close to a steep cobbled stoned bottom. This spot is very exposed. It was cool eating dinner and looking out our camper van window watching this angry turbulent ocean jet 50 yards away. With mountain access looking poor the next two days, our plans are to camp up here and with a little luck I will be catching Manga's overhead the next two days, even if I just get it tomorrow, I'll be stoked. The other question is, will it only be me and the seals?
Tentative plan thereafter, snowboard up in Arthur's Pass Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, we'll drive to Queenstown to zip-line on Saturday, Milford Sound on Sunday, Cardrona to snowboard next Monday,Tuesday and Wednesday, then on Thursday start our 5 day Summitt to Sea.
I need to add, that Emari was so thrilled to see all the seals at the beach, it is a very cool thing. I'm glad we took 36 days, but what I have found is 4-6 months would still not be enough time. One more passing thought, I look out to my right from the camper van and see the ocean, to my left snow covered mountain peaks.....I think I could come to call this place home!!!
In the mean time I get ready to pull out of then upper part of Ste'en's driveway, parked on wet grass on a decline and trying to back out. To my surprise, the wheels just spun sending mud over a short wall and spraying Ste'en's van below. Ste'en emerged and we wedged two 1x6" pieces of wood but they did not work. Lucky I spotted some rubbish of concrete and stone and we loaded up a small trail behind both front tires. No problem, backed right out, but in the process realized the front tires were essentially bald which raised a real question and dilemma, Emari and I were heading to the South Island where they are expected to get hit with a major snowstorm. Bald tires, short bus, me driving on the wrong side of the road etc....things were not adding up for a successful trip. I followed Ste'en to check the waves and it looked fun as shit, but stated, " I can't surf, I need to take care of the tires." I pulled into the local BP garage and spoke to the mechanic who conformed, front tires needed to be replaced and front end aligned, he did not have the tires in stock and recommended a run to Hamilton.
I returned to the house and Emari called our man Danny at Adventure New Zealand and he stated that we had two options, pay to get the tires replaced and get reimbursed or take it to a Firestone Dealer that they had an account with. It was now 11am, most of the tires places in Hamilton either were not open or closed by 2pm. Emari called the one place that was open until 2pm and the obtained our replacements. Emari and I dropped everything and drove 45 minutes to Hamilton. The two mechanics that worked on the car were super friendly and basically stated, "we'll have you up in running in 3/4 of an hour and you can be on your way with your Holiday."
With the tires replaced and piece of mind, with Ste'en's input looking at weather and surf Emari and I were heading to the south island tonight for a 8:25 am ferry on August 14 in hopes of beating out the storm. We grocery shopped in Hamilton and returned to Ste'en and Tonya's, we both showered and shaved at least 4 days of grime away, it felt awesome. We all pitched in for an amazing meal of nachos, chicken fajita's with fresh guacamole and salsa.
Emari and I hit the road at 7:30pm for the 8 hour drive to Wellington to catch the ferry. The drive was hell and I was as shot out as they come. The mountain pass we hit on highway 4 at 1:00am took it's toll on me, washed out lanes, periods of rain and fog, I was seeing all sorts of road gremlins. I made it as far as one hour from the ferry and pulled off to sleep for 3-4 hours though they were restless hours and I was paranoid I'd over sleep despite setting two iPhones one on alarm and one on countdown. I eventually got on the road at 5am and we arrived at the ferry terminal at 6:04, we were second in line and boarding would begin at 6:45am.
The ferry was enormous, eight levels high....18 wheelers, camper vans, motorcycles, foot traffic, they filled it. I got a cup of coffee and Emari got a Chai tea, we found two reclining seats and we tried to sleep. After we awoke we ate some food and we were the first vehicle off the ferry heading down highway 1 south, to Mangamaunu, a classic right point North of Kaikoura. Well if a storm was brewing their was no sign of it as we headed down the coast. As we already knew we are one day early for this swell which is expected to hit tomorrow but it will not be without stiff winds, but the point should shelter some on the wind. It was only about thigh high but what an awesome set up, if I catch this I will be stoked.
Emari and I drove into Kaikoura and went for a walk through town, very cold and damp and the weather had turned windy with rain and even hail, as I write this it sounds like sleet on the roof of our camper van. The mountains are expecting blizzard conditions the next two days, roads will most likely be closed and the few sites we checked out on line were already closed to camper vans. We are camped up right along the beach at a spot called Meatworks, ledgeing picks breaking close to a steep cobbled stoned bottom. This spot is very exposed. It was cool eating dinner and looking out our camper van window watching this angry turbulent ocean jet 50 yards away. With mountain access looking poor the next two days, our plans are to camp up here and with a little luck I will be catching Manga's overhead the next two days, even if I just get it tomorrow, I'll be stoked. The other question is, will it only be me and the seals?
Tentative plan thereafter, snowboard up in Arthur's Pass Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, we'll drive to Queenstown to zip-line on Saturday, Milford Sound on Sunday, Cardrona to snowboard next Monday,Tuesday and Wednesday, then on Thursday start our 5 day Summitt to Sea.
I need to add, that Emari was so thrilled to see all the seals at the beach, it is a very cool thing. I'm glad we took 36 days, but what I have found is 4-6 months would still not be enough time. One more passing thought, I look out to my right from the camper van and see the ocean, to my left snow covered mountain peaks.....I think I could come to call this place home!!!
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Forever September at Waipu Cove
It's rare for me and AJ to have a relaxing day. Weekends and holidays, this 36 day honeymoon, are jam-packed with action and adventure. We like to feel exhausted are a day off, make sure we've invested as much time and energy in our personal lives as we do at work.
But yesterday was that rare exception, a day spent almost entirely admiring the ocean and each other's company. We woke at the Uretiti Department of Conservation Campsite, where we'd parked along the beach. It had stormed through the night, but by 7:30am, the sky had cleared, and it was already warming up. We made our way to Waipu Cove and Lang's Beach and decided to stay at Waipu because it was more exposed to the swell. The waves were chest to head high and clean and pretty punchy.
I opted to paddle out with AJ but was advised to avoid the rocks he planned to surf near. He had seen several nice rights peel by the rocks and was willing to camp out and wait for a set. I stuck to the middle of the beach and was pleased to have on-shore markers (a picnic table and the steps to the beach) to help me maintain my surf spot. When it's all open water and unmarked beach, I might drift quite far or question if I'm in the right spot. Markers take the guessing out of it.
I paddled out past the white water. Had to endure a bit of the water's thrashing before the waves let up and I had an opportunity to paddle out before the next set came in. And I felt good. The sun lit up the water and warmed my face and wetsuit, and I felt comfortable. Comfortable enough to only let one or two sets roll by before I attempted to paddle into a wave. Okay, I thought, this one. I quickly turned my board to face the beach and made sure it was straight, having been rolled when it was on an angle. Now the rush of thinking "feet together, paddle, paddle, board straight, board flat, paddle, paddle, oh shit, it's almost here, paddle, paddle, c'mon, paddle-------". The thinking stops as soon as the wave arrives and lifts me. I'm either overwhelmed by the sensation of being in the wave or hurtling through air and water as I wipeout that my brain finally shuts up. On this first attempt, I was launched over my board in a tremendous nose dive and spun once or twice before popping up for air. The brain immediately reboots.
I paddle out again and attempt to catch three more waves before they break but keep getting caught in the lip and hurtled, pitched, dumped. AJ would later inform me that these waves had steep take-offs. Translation: keep paddling. I decided to go in some. The waves were breaking pretty far out and the white water had good push. And hell, I've spent so much time paddling out, I should have the pleasure of catching something, even white water. And what a good decision that was. I let myself ride a few on my belly first and then I worked on popping up. I probably caught and rode 2/3 of the waves I attempted. It was so much fun!
AJ said it was like a day in September back home. Fun waves, not crowded.
Post surf, we picked up coffee and chai from the Altitude Cafe (which AJ renamed the Attitude Cafe, because he liked the thought of drinking coffee with attitude). And we watched the surf. It was like fall. Both of us sat barefoot on a concrete picnic table in shorts or with pants rolled up. AJ learned a lot about the local surf from a chap with robin's egg blue toenails. We lunched at the cafe (highly recommend the spiced wedges and the chai if you're in the area) and stopped at Lang's beach again to empty and fill our water at the dump station there. And we were back on the road to check out Mangawhai Heads (head high, a little overhead, closing out and kind of soft, but there was a really stylish long boarder out there). We opted to head straight for Raglan, hoping to catch the swell on Saturday morning and get in a surf before the drive to Wellington.
When we arrived in Raglan, Tonya and Ste'en were already home. We had planned to camp at the top of their driveway. I whipped together a pasta dish with garlic, mushrooms, silver beet, butter, olive oil, and some assorted seafood, and we all vegged out in front of the tv. Wednesday night craft friends, I watched Family Guy. My friends can attest this is some serios loafing.
I feel so fortunate to be exploring this beautiful country with AJ. He makes me laugh and is a true partner. Everyday I find myself marveling at this exciting adventure and the man I'm sharing it with.
But yesterday was that rare exception, a day spent almost entirely admiring the ocean and each other's company. We woke at the Uretiti Department of Conservation Campsite, where we'd parked along the beach. It had stormed through the night, but by 7:30am, the sky had cleared, and it was already warming up. We made our way to Waipu Cove and Lang's Beach and decided to stay at Waipu because it was more exposed to the swell. The waves were chest to head high and clean and pretty punchy.
I opted to paddle out with AJ but was advised to avoid the rocks he planned to surf near. He had seen several nice rights peel by the rocks and was willing to camp out and wait for a set. I stuck to the middle of the beach and was pleased to have on-shore markers (a picnic table and the steps to the beach) to help me maintain my surf spot. When it's all open water and unmarked beach, I might drift quite far or question if I'm in the right spot. Markers take the guessing out of it.
I paddled out past the white water. Had to endure a bit of the water's thrashing before the waves let up and I had an opportunity to paddle out before the next set came in. And I felt good. The sun lit up the water and warmed my face and wetsuit, and I felt comfortable. Comfortable enough to only let one or two sets roll by before I attempted to paddle into a wave. Okay, I thought, this one. I quickly turned my board to face the beach and made sure it was straight, having been rolled when it was on an angle. Now the rush of thinking "feet together, paddle, paddle, board straight, board flat, paddle, paddle, oh shit, it's almost here, paddle, paddle, c'mon, paddle-------". The thinking stops as soon as the wave arrives and lifts me. I'm either overwhelmed by the sensation of being in the wave or hurtling through air and water as I wipeout that my brain finally shuts up. On this first attempt, I was launched over my board in a tremendous nose dive and spun once or twice before popping up for air. The brain immediately reboots.
I paddle out again and attempt to catch three more waves before they break but keep getting caught in the lip and hurtled, pitched, dumped. AJ would later inform me that these waves had steep take-offs. Translation: keep paddling. I decided to go in some. The waves were breaking pretty far out and the white water had good push. And hell, I've spent so much time paddling out, I should have the pleasure of catching something, even white water. And what a good decision that was. I let myself ride a few on my belly first and then I worked on popping up. I probably caught and rode 2/3 of the waves I attempted. It was so much fun!
AJ said it was like a day in September back home. Fun waves, not crowded.
Post surf, we picked up coffee and chai from the Altitude Cafe (which AJ renamed the Attitude Cafe, because he liked the thought of drinking coffee with attitude). And we watched the surf. It was like fall. Both of us sat barefoot on a concrete picnic table in shorts or with pants rolled up. AJ learned a lot about the local surf from a chap with robin's egg blue toenails. We lunched at the cafe (highly recommend the spiced wedges and the chai if you're in the area) and stopped at Lang's beach again to empty and fill our water at the dump station there. And we were back on the road to check out Mangawhai Heads (head high, a little overhead, closing out and kind of soft, but there was a really stylish long boarder out there). We opted to head straight for Raglan, hoping to catch the swell on Saturday morning and get in a surf before the drive to Wellington.
When we arrived in Raglan, Tonya and Ste'en were already home. We had planned to camp at the top of their driveway. I whipped together a pasta dish with garlic, mushrooms, silver beet, butter, olive oil, and some assorted seafood, and we all vegged out in front of the tv. Wednesday night craft friends, I watched Family Guy. My friends can attest this is some serios loafing.
I feel so fortunate to be exploring this beautiful country with AJ. He makes me laugh and is a true partner. Everyday I find myself marveling at this exciting adventure and the man I'm sharing it with.
Thursday, August 11, 2011
Finally Wet!
After camping up in a campsite in Whananaki the evening before I had awoken before the sun while Emari appeared to be sleeping. I fired up the range to get the coffee going, pulled out some bowls for our "Sanitarium" Cereal, a banana pulled down from the top shelf. By this time Emari had stirred and climbed down from our overhead sleeping accommodations. We ate and made a plan to drive "just one hill north" to Moureeses. It wasn't big but I was itching to surf after three days of driving and 1200kms travelled. On the south end of the bay their was a small point and outcropping of rocks, every once in a while a little "A" frame peak broke along the rocks and peeled across the bay. It was a solid chest high, some head high sets, fairly clean with morning sickness. the wind never went offshore but never picked up. I surfed three hours and caught a lot of fun waves. Emari stayed out for 2 hours, paddled to the outside, took a number of waves on the head but never gave up. She later told me she caught one wave, that's my girl! When she gets back to Ventnor the average day in the ocean will seem remedial.
After my session she poured me two hot buckets to rinse off with and when I entered our camper van she had hot soup simmering adding, "I'll throw some grilled cheese together"...another perfect meal, and we ate. I had thought of staying to surf another session but I was already feeling pressed at lunch time when I pulled up the calendar on Emari's cell phone, wondering if we were going to get it all in. We still wanted to go zip-lining and snowboard at least another 10 days. Knowing the amount of driving it would and will take could be exhausting, but we were not here to relax.
Emari dialed up directions for Sandy Bay, 36 kms south but the drive was over an hour. As soon as we got on the road the conditions changed to dirt and gravel, at worse even mud, and we climbed at least four mountain passes, but nothing quite as dangerous as the day before as the roads were not as narrow and generally not so steep. Sandy Bay was bigger than Moureeses but more exposed to the on-shore wind, it was head high with bigger sets, only two people out. I passed, did not want to leave myself with a 600 kms drive during the next two days. 400 kms seems fair, still draining, but allows for a lazy morning or morning of surf and enough day light to travel in.
We continued to head South, this time to Pataua Bar, when on a supposed "classic right hand river bar" but when we arrived the wind was on-shore, tide seemed to full, sky filled with thunder and threatening to storm. I was planning to get wet and had Emari looked up camping options, which locally their was none and I did not feel comfortable camped up in this rather quaint coastal town. At this point we had internet service which has been scarce the entire Northeast coast. Their were two other spots along this stretch of coast I wanted to check out, Waipu Cove and Langs Beach-Ding Bay and Emari found camping just north of Waipu, it was an hours drive and we were "on the road again." We arrived right before dark, one of Emari's wishes, as we have had some near mishaps driving at night. She threw together a version of huevos rancheros after we parked our camper up along the dune line near the beach. Relax, unwind, read...sleep then awake and explore the coast.
After my session she poured me two hot buckets to rinse off with and when I entered our camper van she had hot soup simmering adding, "I'll throw some grilled cheese together"...another perfect meal, and we ate. I had thought of staying to surf another session but I was already feeling pressed at lunch time when I pulled up the calendar on Emari's cell phone, wondering if we were going to get it all in. We still wanted to go zip-lining and snowboard at least another 10 days. Knowing the amount of driving it would and will take could be exhausting, but we were not here to relax.
Emari dialed up directions for Sandy Bay, 36 kms south but the drive was over an hour. As soon as we got on the road the conditions changed to dirt and gravel, at worse even mud, and we climbed at least four mountain passes, but nothing quite as dangerous as the day before as the roads were not as narrow and generally not so steep. Sandy Bay was bigger than Moureeses but more exposed to the on-shore wind, it was head high with bigger sets, only two people out. I passed, did not want to leave myself with a 600 kms drive during the next two days. 400 kms seems fair, still draining, but allows for a lazy morning or morning of surf and enough day light to travel in.
We continued to head South, this time to Pataua Bar, when on a supposed "classic right hand river bar" but when we arrived the wind was on-shore, tide seemed to full, sky filled with thunder and threatening to storm. I was planning to get wet and had Emari looked up camping options, which locally their was none and I did not feel comfortable camped up in this rather quaint coastal town. At this point we had internet service which has been scarce the entire Northeast coast. Their were two other spots along this stretch of coast I wanted to check out, Waipu Cove and Langs Beach-Ding Bay and Emari found camping just north of Waipu, it was an hours drive and we were "on the road again." We arrived right before dark, one of Emari's wishes, as we have had some near mishaps driving at night. She threw together a version of huevos rancheros after we parked our camper up along the dune line near the beach. Relax, unwind, read...sleep then awake and explore the coast.
Dead Man's Curve
We awoke early Tuesday Mourning parked across the street from a school in the Shipwreck Bay area. We had driven approximately 7 hours the day/night before in hopes of catching a shoulder high swell at Shipwrecks but what we found was not an amazing set up but flat. Emari and I took a long walk around the point escorted by a dog she named Frodo. Interesting enough he spotted us at his house and when we passed the sign on the gate read, "private access, dog may bite." More like, "dog gives guided tours." when back at the camper we made breakfast and decided we'd head North and find a Holiday Park so we could do laundry, clean out the toilet cassette etc. Emari had also scouted out a road along 90 mile beach.......more driving!
We were off, first pull off for 90 Mile Beach dirt and gravel but what we found was beach access to drive on the beach for 90 miles, we both concurred this was not a good idea in a two wheel drive camper van the size of a bus. Hind site being 20/20, I probably should have surfed. I couldn't tell how big it was but at least head high and bigger, rather long paddle and most of the waves were shutting down and closing out, besides I was tired and we needed to get stuff done. We opted to keep driving north when approximately 40-50km up the road their was another sign for 90 Mile Beach. This drive was more adventurous and scenic down a long dirt and gravel road that went on for miles through heavily wooded areas before eventually spitting us out on the beach. We decided to back track and press on.
Emari had found a Holiday Park in Waitiki which was Approximately 30km south of Cape Reinga. We coughed up our NZ $30 and pulled our camper van up to a powered site....finally heat without using propane. Not really sure of the order of things, but I think we scoped out where to empty our toilette casette, as well as dump our gray water and fill up. Once we obtained this information we pulled out the toilette cassette and also shot a little video documenting this disgusting chore. I opted for the dirty work and the brown liquid that poured from the cassette was nasty. Emari had filled a bucket with fresh water to rinse out, I think we completed this process 1-2 more times before Emari completed the educated portion of this chore....adding new chemicals to the cassette before sliding it back into place. We both showered, Emari started laundry and since the public dryer was broken, the owners allowed her to use the big dryer for our clothes. So far this trip has been filled with free shit.....no charge for surfboards and snowboards, free day of riding at Mt. Fuckyourpapa, free up grade on the camper van(Megha score on this one), free dryer use and countless free hours of driving adventure!!!
Wednesday August 10 we woke by 7am and I asked Emari if we could pull out and eat later, she was agreeable and we headed for Cape Reinga which was 20 plus km north. This place was amazing, where the Tasman Sea violently collides with the Pacific Ocean. It was very windy with light rain when we arrived. It was really the first touristy thing we did, walking the foot path, reading the signs and snapping photos along the way. Their appeared to be clean surf on the Tasman Sea side, but how you would get to it was beyond me, we were perched high up on a ridge line. Our timing could not have been better, by the time we got to the camper van it started pouring rain in sheets with gusty winds.
We headed south down 1F and checked the surf at Rarawa Beach and Henderson Bay. Their was surf but it was stormy on shore mess. We had Internet service at Henderson Bay so I checked the surf reports and called Ste'en who was getting ready to leave Raglan for Auckland for three days. He advised staying on the East Coast the next 2-3 days, the winds would be wrong for Raglan. He also advised staying further north, more exposed and bigger but I did not want to leave another 7 plus hour drive a head of me. I decided on Helena Bay, 48 kms north of Whangarei....we arrived 4 hours later to another pristine bay, flat! Of course the swell is not hitting until tomorrow, but their was no sign of life and I was thinking wrong swell angle. Emari and I decided on Whananaki North, 32 kms and 23 minutes South, according to google maps. Emari fired up our course on the iPad, she has been an amazing co-pilot and has gotten us to every destination.....without fail and in most cases without excitement. In fact most of our great stories have no happened on a board but driving.....this would prove to be no different!
We pulled out of Helena Bay and as instructed I turned left onto Webb Road. The road quickly turned to gravel and dirt and started to get steep and windy....no big deal, the whole trip has been steep and windy and we were no novices to gravel and dirt at this point. It was probably only 4-6 switch backs up this mountain pass that the road got narrow, remained gravel and dirt, no guardrails, I mean fucking scary. I confirmed and asked, "32 kms of this?" Of course Emari did not know the answer, we were back into the unknown and rest assure this camper van, this mini bus probably had never seen roads like this! Early on I attempted to climb in third gear but it was too steep, I needed more power in a lower gear, less braking on the descents, we lived in second gear. Approximately a third of the way I blurted out, "I could fucking cry" this road was that scary. I would've thought it crazy in a small 4x4 truck and we were in a 6 Berth 2 wheel drive camper van......this had become our Lord of the Rings, our journey into Middle Earth and beyond. I can't imagine if we were to encounter on-coming traffic, their simply was not room for two. At one point we came to a fork in the road, we were not sure, no 3G service, no google maps. We stopped on a relatively sharp incline and I asked, "which way?" Emari hesitated and said, "straight" only to find out later that she simply made a calculated guess at best! Emari later disclosed that she saw a white car that had gone off the road, adding that at that point she felt really scared. As for me, afraid of heights, ledges.....the uncertainty, we made it and it became another highlight of our trip. This 23 minute trip turned into an hour of non stop uncertainty!
We settled in to a campground in Whananaki North and we'll see what tomorrow brings. Trying not to be down for lack of found surf the past 3 days, though the search has been quite the adventure. What I have found is that the driving is hard not quick and leaving one spot to check a neighboring spot can turn into a 30 minute to hour drive. We also really scored the first 8 days we were in NZ....Raglan right off the plane couple feet over head, Wainui Beach head high with bigger sets for two days, two amazing days of riding Mt Doom and three days of surf in the Gisborne area. Since we left Raglan we have driven 400 plus kms a day, countless mountain passes, countless single lane bridges, many unknowns, countless sheep and cattle, endless spaces of no people, miles upon miles without a car in front of you or one behind you, countless children with deliberately no shoes on their feet, must be cultural and the list goes on......the work truck in Gisborne that had the following signage on the truck, "Erection Specialist"......we ate a" Hangi in a Pie" today.
Off to bed........AJ
We were off, first pull off for 90 Mile Beach dirt and gravel but what we found was beach access to drive on the beach for 90 miles, we both concurred this was not a good idea in a two wheel drive camper van the size of a bus. Hind site being 20/20, I probably should have surfed. I couldn't tell how big it was but at least head high and bigger, rather long paddle and most of the waves were shutting down and closing out, besides I was tired and we needed to get stuff done. We opted to keep driving north when approximately 40-50km up the road their was another sign for 90 Mile Beach. This drive was more adventurous and scenic down a long dirt and gravel road that went on for miles through heavily wooded areas before eventually spitting us out on the beach. We decided to back track and press on.
Emari had found a Holiday Park in Waitiki which was Approximately 30km south of Cape Reinga. We coughed up our NZ $30 and pulled our camper van up to a powered site....finally heat without using propane. Not really sure of the order of things, but I think we scoped out where to empty our toilette casette, as well as dump our gray water and fill up. Once we obtained this information we pulled out the toilette cassette and also shot a little video documenting this disgusting chore. I opted for the dirty work and the brown liquid that poured from the cassette was nasty. Emari had filled a bucket with fresh water to rinse out, I think we completed this process 1-2 more times before Emari completed the educated portion of this chore....adding new chemicals to the cassette before sliding it back into place. We both showered, Emari started laundry and since the public dryer was broken, the owners allowed her to use the big dryer for our clothes. So far this trip has been filled with free shit.....no charge for surfboards and snowboards, free day of riding at Mt. Fuckyourpapa, free up grade on the camper van(Megha score on this one), free dryer use and countless free hours of driving adventure!!!
Wednesday August 10 we woke by 7am and I asked Emari if we could pull out and eat later, she was agreeable and we headed for Cape Reinga which was 20 plus km north. This place was amazing, where the Tasman Sea violently collides with the Pacific Ocean. It was very windy with light rain when we arrived. It was really the first touristy thing we did, walking the foot path, reading the signs and snapping photos along the way. Their appeared to be clean surf on the Tasman Sea side, but how you would get to it was beyond me, we were perched high up on a ridge line. Our timing could not have been better, by the time we got to the camper van it started pouring rain in sheets with gusty winds.
We headed south down 1F and checked the surf at Rarawa Beach and Henderson Bay. Their was surf but it was stormy on shore mess. We had Internet service at Henderson Bay so I checked the surf reports and called Ste'en who was getting ready to leave Raglan for Auckland for three days. He advised staying on the East Coast the next 2-3 days, the winds would be wrong for Raglan. He also advised staying further north, more exposed and bigger but I did not want to leave another 7 plus hour drive a head of me. I decided on Helena Bay, 48 kms north of Whangarei....we arrived 4 hours later to another pristine bay, flat! Of course the swell is not hitting until tomorrow, but their was no sign of life and I was thinking wrong swell angle. Emari and I decided on Whananaki North, 32 kms and 23 minutes South, according to google maps. Emari fired up our course on the iPad, she has been an amazing co-pilot and has gotten us to every destination.....without fail and in most cases without excitement. In fact most of our great stories have no happened on a board but driving.....this would prove to be no different!
We pulled out of Helena Bay and as instructed I turned left onto Webb Road. The road quickly turned to gravel and dirt and started to get steep and windy....no big deal, the whole trip has been steep and windy and we were no novices to gravel and dirt at this point. It was probably only 4-6 switch backs up this mountain pass that the road got narrow, remained gravel and dirt, no guardrails, I mean fucking scary. I confirmed and asked, "32 kms of this?" Of course Emari did not know the answer, we were back into the unknown and rest assure this camper van, this mini bus probably had never seen roads like this! Early on I attempted to climb in third gear but it was too steep, I needed more power in a lower gear, less braking on the descents, we lived in second gear. Approximately a third of the way I blurted out, "I could fucking cry" this road was that scary. I would've thought it crazy in a small 4x4 truck and we were in a 6 Berth 2 wheel drive camper van......this had become our Lord of the Rings, our journey into Middle Earth and beyond. I can't imagine if we were to encounter on-coming traffic, their simply was not room for two. At one point we came to a fork in the road, we were not sure, no 3G service, no google maps. We stopped on a relatively sharp incline and I asked, "which way?" Emari hesitated and said, "straight" only to find out later that she simply made a calculated guess at best! Emari later disclosed that she saw a white car that had gone off the road, adding that at that point she felt really scared. As for me, afraid of heights, ledges.....the uncertainty, we made it and it became another highlight of our trip. This 23 minute trip turned into an hour of non stop uncertainty!
We settled in to a campground in Whananaki North and we'll see what tomorrow brings. Trying not to be down for lack of found surf the past 3 days, though the search has been quite the adventure. What I have found is that the driving is hard not quick and leaving one spot to check a neighboring spot can turn into a 30 minute to hour drive. We also really scored the first 8 days we were in NZ....Raglan right off the plane couple feet over head, Wainui Beach head high with bigger sets for two days, two amazing days of riding Mt Doom and three days of surf in the Gisborne area. Since we left Raglan we have driven 400 plus kms a day, countless mountain passes, countless single lane bridges, many unknowns, countless sheep and cattle, endless spaces of no people, miles upon miles without a car in front of you or one behind you, countless children with deliberately no shoes on their feet, must be cultural and the list goes on......the work truck in Gisborne that had the following signage on the truck, "Erection Specialist"......we ate a" Hangi in a Pie" today.
Off to bed........AJ
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Care to defrost your Comcast bill? Need to nuke the weekly circular?
We have encountered numerous microwave mailboxes throughout the North Island, from Gisborne to Cape Reinga, and from my google search, this is not an entirely new idea. If you're interested, here's a how-to site for you.
We've been off the grid for a bit, out of wireless range, but all over NZ's north coast. When we woke on Monday morning in Tauranga, we were certain we'd earned our first camping/parking ticket. The town/city was so swanky, we could find a designated free camping site anywhere. We had spotted a few other camper vans parked along the beach, none directly in front of the no camping signs, but a few blocks down, as if parking a bit away from where it was marked a no-no made it okay. We drove up and down the same street for twenty minutes, selecting a spot away from the prohibited signs and in front of mostly dark houses. But in the morning, there was a slip of paper on the windshield. We'd been nabbed.
But instead of a parking/camping ticket, we received a helpful ticket-sized flyer about where to park for free and for pay in Tauranga. So no fine, and useful information. Imagine if parking authorities in Philly or NY distributed parking information, instead of tickets?
The surf was flat, so we reevaluated our plan and made our way to a hot spring pool. Fernland Spa was outside of Tauranga's city center. AJ and I rented a private pool for a half hour and soaked our traveling bones. The water was delightfully hot, and I like to refer to this part of our trip as Honeymoon Soup.
But all of this relaxation would drained by the ride ahead of us. We decided to make a run for it and drive all the way to Shipwreck's Bay on the west coast. That's about 530 km and about 6 hours and 40 minutes. Basically, we'd be making a trip to Vermont with very heavy traffic in the Oranges.
The trip was long. We stopped for gas in Opotiki and passed one town after another that was nothing more than four or five houses, a school (which looked like a house), and the occasional church or general store. In Kaikohe, which had an actual downtown, we stopped at Sun City for some Chinese take-away (these are the only restaurants open late in these parts, but I should mention they do offer a variety of fried tasties, including the very popular fish and chips). A Maori family came in, and all six children raced to sit on the six spinning bar stools on the far wall. They smiled and giggled at us, and ran around the restaurant as if it were a jungle gym. All of them were shoeless, which is very common in NZ. AJ and I have seen kids and teens on the way to or from school without shoes on. And we've seen Maori and white children barefoot equally. The father or man who accompanied the children only entered the restaurant when the food arrived and he wore only socks. The mother had white converse high tops.
Post-noodles, we were back on our way, with hours to go. When we finally arrived in Ahipara, the town closest to Shipwreck's, we were exhausted. We didn't have signal and the paper maps we had didn't even indicate the roads we were on. Google maps indicated where the road ended, but we couldn't know, in the dark, that it would end on a narrow stretch of unpaved road at the edge of the beach, gated off with no trespassing/Maori land. AJ exited the van to see if there was room to turn around in front of the gate, but he had taken three or four steps when he froze, jaw tense, and high-tailed it back to the van. It was waiting to see a Maori elder with a shotgun, like Ste'en had told us about in Raglan. It was a dog, and fortunately it was tied up/fenced in.
Commence Operation What the Fuck Am I Doing, also known as turning a six-berth camper van around in the dark on a sliver of unpaved road with generous drop offs on each side. I went to the back of the camper to signal which direction AJ should turn and when to stop. He was freaking out.
AJ: Which way?
Me: Toward you now.
AJ: (silence and no movement) Which way?
Me: Toward you.
AJ: You know I'm not going to back this all the way up?
Me: Well, if you don't want to fall in a ditch, you need to keep backing up right now
AJ: What the fuck am I doing? What the fuck am I doing?
Me: (silence...in my head, I was thinking, "You're losing it, babe!"
Shipwreck's Bay could've become Camperwreck's Bay. But we made it. Burned up the clutch a bit but managed to narrow escape. And though we couldn't find a free campsite here either, we opted to park along one of the town's parks (since that's what the literature in Tauranga advised). That sleep was well earned, and unfortunately the surf was flat here too. We opted to drive back in daylight and walk along the beach, just to see the coast and where we were stuck the night before. A cute dog, who I affectionately named Frodo, followed us, or should I say, escorted us, around the point. The sky was clear and the view was spectacular. It's unclear how surfers access this point, though it's mentioned in both of AJ's surf books. You'd have to trek so far to get to the break, and I imagine you could get stuck out there during high tide.
After our walk, we decided to head up the coast to Ninety Mile Beach, where the swell was supposed to be several meters high. It wasn't, and Ninety Mile Beach Road is actually just the beach. I can't wait to share the warning sign when I can post pictures. Drivers are at their own risk, as vehicles have been lost during high tide. We decided not to risk our $5000 bond on the camper van and headed further north to the last camper van park on the North Island, in Waitiki, where further adventures of emptying our toilet cassette took place. But more of that later.
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