Started the day with another surf. The waves were clean and water was clear and glassy. AJ and I were the only ones out for the first hour. Today's paddle out was child's play, compared to the thrashing I received yesterday, though I did get caught on the inside after failing to catch a wave I'd paddled for and ended up taking a whole set on my head. Our friend Ste'en caught this on camera and I promise to post photos later.
Like the past two days, AJ had a fantastic day in the water, shredding the Tasmian Sea at the Wainui Beach break, with his Rusty Redline. I stayed out in the green water all morning and paddled into the biggest waves I've ever paddled for. My heart thumped a little less persistently, but it was nearly impossible to quell my excitement and fear. This is only the fourth spot I've ever surfed: 1. Ventnor Pier, 2. Avalon, 3. Brigantine, and 4. Wainui Beach, Raglan, NZ.
Today's informal surf lessons included keeping my feet together on the board while paddling, paddling beneath my board while taking off for a wave, and keeping the board pointed at the beach during my take off. I had caught or was in a few waves today and was rolled because my board was on an angle. Have to tune in to that when we surf again, which isn't for a few days.
We're off to Ohakune to snowboard tomorrow at Mt. Rapahue. And tonight will be the first night we spend in our honeymoon suite camper van!!!
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